Walking 6.50am to 4.30pm
Distance walked 17 miles
Distance remaining 129 miles
Within a minute of leaving Tan Hill went through the gate in to Sleightholme Moor. Wainwright, in his Pennine Way Companion, says, "At the best of times, even in sunshine, Sleightholme Moor is like walking in porridge. After heavy rain it is like walking in oxtail soup." I've been across it before when it has been an absolute squelch-fest, like walking on waterlogged mattresses. Today it was quite charming and damp in only a few places and these were easily avoided. Navigation was as tricky as ever but helped by the sporadic white-topped posts.
At Jack Shield's Bridge I stopped to pass the time of day with a lady outside her home, a converted field barn. Ten minutes later, walking again, I chatted with her husband, out walking the dog. They've only lived here for eight months. Only two neighbours for several miles.
At Trough Heads the route splits. Left is the main route which I had decided to take. Straight on is the Bowes Loop (or Bowes Alternative) which takes in the village of Bowes, which has a pub, The Ancient Unicorn, where Charles Dickens is said to have stayed in researching Nicholas Nickelby. There is a house there named Dotheboys Hall. Also the sparse remains of a castle. Emily, who I walked with yesterday and who stopped at Keld, was planning to take this route and overnight here so she'll be a day behind me.
A little way past the so called Ravock Castle (a pile of stones, I think, as I didn't notice it, I stopped at a shooting hut to brew coffee. One end is always kept open as a shelter although it was too warm inside today. From the graffiti on the wall, it's provided a refuge in bad weather for many others.
Clove Lodge is still for sale (or for sale again) I fantasised about buying it and setting it up as some form of pit stop and maybe bunk house for PW walkers as it has been in the past. It's with Strutt & Parker. At Blackton Bridge, at the end of the reservoir of the same name, I reached the half way point of the Pennine Way and stopped for lunch. Passing me by were a couple who were B&B-ing the PW and who I'd seen most days, also a couple of fellows who I'd seen several times. Then came the lovely Hannah's Meadow, a wild flower meadow, named after Hannah Hauxwell who lived nearby until the 1980s at a lonely farm without running water or electricity. The TV documentary about her is on YouTube.
At North Wythes Hill Farm, I took advantage of a little Tuck Shop, provided for walkers and downed a can of Coke and refilled my water as I wasn't yet decided where to spend tonight.
Soon Middleton in Teesdale appeared as I crested a hill and I began the gradual long descent down a wide and winding grassy slope to the small town. Ascertaining that the Daleview site was still charging a very reasonable £5 a night I decided to stay. It's a good site.
After pitching, I walked in to town and met Kevin from yesterday. I'll no doubt see him again tomorrow. I also came across Kyle "Impala" Lintern, a (in the hiking world) well known vlogger on YouTube, to whose channel I subscribe. We chatted and both resupplied at the Co-op but he's heading south on a LEJOG flip flop. I didn't quite get what he was doing though.
Yet another day of good weather. I think some rain might come tomorrow.
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