Pennine Way Day 16 - 23 June 2021

Byrness to Clennell Street
Walking 5.40am to 4.20pm
Distance walked 14 miles (plus 1.5 miles for detour)
Distance remaining 15 miles

I woke early to see the midges swirling again. Fortunately, I'd slept with my head net on so I had a good night. I started getting ready at 4.45am and made tea. I should have covered it while it was brewing. I had to scoop loads of midges out before I could drink it. Those that were left were unlikely to cause me any harm. 

The steep ascent and final rock scramble out of Byrness got me on to Byrness Hill with the warning on the gate that there might be soldiers milling around and that there might be firing and pyrotechnics, but reassurance that live ammunition wasn't used. In fact, I saw no soldiers at all, unlike in 2017 when a spread out file of them in full battle dress emerged out of the mist and followed the PW for some distance. I simply took my place in the file. It was quite amusing. 

I made really good progress over the dry, springy ground. At Chew Green, the Roman camp, I stopped to brew coffee and a Spine Race runner came by. I took a photo and then he was off again. Not running though. When you've been going for nearly 250 miles it's more of a trot. Coming from the other direction was a fellow walking from Cape Wrath to The Lizard. 

There wasn't any sun and it was generally overcast and a little breezy. Perfect walking weather really. At Yearning Saddle refuge hut was another Spine Race checkpoint and not long after another runner appeared. I stepped off the path to let him go by. 

At Windy Gyle I stopped for lunch. I recalled my camp here in 1977. It was hot and late afternoon. I was parched but some kind people coming down gave me some orange squash which I put in a mu and carefully carried it up. As I was putting my tent up, a nosey sheep came by and knocked it over! A fine spot if the weather permits it as the views are superb. Darren and Dave appeared and stopped as well. I left first and headed for Clennell Street, a mile further on, where I spent a very windy night in 2017. I made a detour to Davidson's Linn, a twenty minute walk away to the east through some forest to a secluded valley. Here there is a neat waterfall and fast running stream. I drank a good amount of my remaining water, made tea and replenished my water from the stream to get me through the rest of today and tomorrow. 

I then returned to Clennell Street and pitched on the Scottish side of the fence. I didn't want to be on the English side this time as I might find a Spine Race runner tripping over a guy line in the night. 

Later this afternoon, two lady PW walkers appeared, Sandra and Ally, who I hadn't seen before. After chatting for a while, they went off to pitch not far off. 

I had an interesting supper. At the pitstop at Hornistead there was a part used bag of Huel, green Thai curry flavour. I took a couple of scoops and memorised the instructions. I ate it this evening. It was quite good and probably my healthiest meal so far.