Pennine Way Day 13 - 20 June 2021

Knarsdale to Haughtongreen Bothy
Walking 5.25am (again) to 6.10pm
Distance walked 24 miles
Distance remaining 56 miles

Was planning a longer distance today. The morning started a little misty on the surrounding hill tops. The path went through or alongside some open access areas. Plenty of curlew and lapwing wheeling about, uttering cries to keep me away from their nests. A few very vocal skylarks as well. I've seen no prey at all so far. I think merlin can be seen in this part of the country. Yesterday and before then there were golden plover. 

Blenkinsopp Common was an inhospitable expanse. I went astray from the path here as it was so indistinct at times. Certainly not an area for trying to find somewhere to camp. 

I had no need to divert into Greenhead. In the nine miles I'd walked I saw no-one. The path went through Haltwhistle Golf Course and, as luck would have it, within fifty yards of the club house where I was able to replenish my water, it being open. Crossing the railway and passing by what is left of Thirlwall Castle, I started the long ascent up to Hadrian's Wall. The Wall Trail is a national trail from the Solway Firth to Newcastle and the Pennine Way follows it for some eight miles and is hard work with its roller coaster ups and downs. I've walked this eight mile stretch three times altogether I had no wish to do it again, especially in today's warm weather. Therefore, I devised a route which followed a lane and tracks south of the wall until Caw Gap where a road took me north of the wall and then a track and path to meet the PW. The road part was particularly tedious but there were no really serious inclines. 

After following the PW for just over a mile, I took a side path to Haughtongreen bothy, one that I've wished to visit for some time. The interior is not to the standard of Greg's Hut. I don't know how much it's used but, being closer to civilisation, it attracts some less desirable visitors. It didn't feel welcoming. I gave it a good sweep and moved some empty cans out of the main room. I'm camping nearby. 

The midges are very bad; the air is thick with them. It's rained a little but that hasn't deterred them.