South West Coast Path Day 15 - 17 September 2022

The final day. Leaving the site at Maker Heights, I followed a path out, south east, to rejoin the SWCP at SX440511. I walked for 1.5 hours and arrived at Cremyll ferry just as a boat was coming in. In Plymouth, I walked through the city, stopping in a McDonalds for breakfast and coffee. I then whiled away the morning, making my way to the station. I had a direct train to Cheltenham. There, I found that my train to Worcester had been cancelled. The next train was going to be twenty minutes late which meant that I would miss my next connection. I eventually got home, not allowing myself to get stressed which would have spoilt the holiday feeling.

About three miles walked to ferry. St Ives to Plymouth - 186 miles.

South West Coast Path Day 14 - 16 September 2022

A late start - 8.45am. Bay View Farm is a good site. On the site owner, Liz's, recommendation I road walked to Seaton and Downderry. It avoided what she thought were pointless ups and downs parallel with the road. The road was single track in places and very quiet.

Some way beyond Downderry I stopped on the cliff top path and pitched the tarp to dry out. Shortly after continuing Tony came along, having overnighted in Looe. We walked together the next few miles. We parted company at the car park above Tregantle Fort where I stopped for a lunch break and made arrangements for travel home tomorrow.

Chalets at Freathy

Cawsand

I covered the last few miles to Rame Head and then through Cawsand and Kingsand in good time and got directions to the campsite at Maker Heights. Another good site with views across Plymouth Sound. It'll be a couple of miles in the morning to the Cremyll ferry into Plymouth.

Rame Head

Sixteen miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 13 - 15 September 2022

Away really early, I walked back down the hill into Polruan to find the coast path. It was only just getting light so stopped to make an early coffee in front of the lookout station.

Polruan lookout station

There were some severe ups and downs through the day but I took a couple of leisurely breaks.

Near West Coombe

Polperro

Polperro was buzzing. I bought a large pasty to eat cold this evening. The stretch between Polperro and Looe was challenging but the walk into Looe was level. The climb out was steep in parts.

I'm camped at Bay View Farm, a good site with decent facilities. Quite a tough day but good weather. Fourteen miles walked.

Earlier today, I posted on the Polruan Holidays Facebook page about my experience yesterday. They apologised. Seems their mobile phone website had mistakenly not been updated. Still, they've obviously put their prices up significantly part way through the season.

South West Coast Path Day 12 - 14 September 2022

Another early start. The rain was continuous from mid-afternoon yesterday to 6.45 this morning. I packed up and the rain stopped just a few minutes before I left my pitch to regain the coast path, only ten minutes away.

At Pentewan I visited the Co-op at 8am and bought a restorative coffee and bacon and cheese turnover. The Co-op is easy to miss. Its rear gate is just before the bridge and directly on the path.

Approaching Charlestown (from the west), there is a major path diversion. It's not signposted. A couple had walked a quarter mile only to find the path completely blocked and had to walk back. I met them as they were about to start on the diverted route and we walked the mile or so into Charlestown. They then went to a cafe and I walked on.

Charlestown

Past Carlyon Bay I stopped for lunch. Another lightweight backpacker, John, stopped to chat. I caught up with him later and we walked together from Polmear to Polkerris, he to take a break and go another route. Shortly after, I met with Tony who I'd come across a couple of times this week. We walked to Fowey. At Gribbin Head, I'd considered camping but it was too windy.

Tony headed for his accommodation in Fowey and I went down to the quay where the Polruan ferry was waiting. On board was Sheila, just two days into a cycle ride from Lands End to John o'Groats. At Polruan, I helped push her panniered bike up the long incline out of the village to the Polruan Holiday Park. I'd ascertained their rate for backpackers was £11 but on arrival they wanted £15 so I declined to stay and walked on a short distance and found a reasonable wild pitch. Eighteen miles walked.

Fowey

Fowey to Polruan ferry

South West Coast Path Day 11 - 13 September 2022

Slept very well at Nare Head. The only passers by in the evening were a (I believe) local walker, before I pitched, and a couple walking dogs, after I'd pitched and they took no notice.

Was away by 7am. After two miles or so, I reached Portloe. 

Portloe

Then on to West and then East Portholland. I stopped to make coffee at the Porthlune Cove car park. Replenished water at the toilets there. Stopped for lunch at Dodman Point. Gorran Haven seemed forever coming but I passed through it quickly.

Mevagissey

Reaching Mevagissey, busy with holidaymakers, I left it behind and headed for my planned wild camp in the outskirts. Very peaceful. It's rained in and off all day and that's continued all evening which is an advantage really as it means I'm less likely to be disturbed. About 15 miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 10 - 12 September 2022

Chris dropped me off at St Mawes and I got the first ferry across to Place at 9.30. There was a little unforecast rain but it had stopped by the time I got off the boat. There were three other passengers and a dog.

There were quite a lot of day walkers on and off along the path. Is it odd to resent their presence? I like to have the path to myself.

Not a lot to say about the day really. There were a few steep climbs but all pretty straightforward. A pleasant, dry day. I'm camped on Nare Head. A bit breezy but OK. There was a beautiful sunset looking across towards Portscatho.

South West Coast Path Day 9 - 11 September 2022

The wind really got up in the night. The noise of my tarp flapping meant I had to go outside and tighten everything up. I suppose I was in quite an exposed spot on Rosemullion Head, a bit like being on a whale's back.

This is a photo of where I was last night, right in the centre in front of gorse bushes. Of course, my tarp isn't there as I took the photo having packed up and on my way.

I was at Maenporth by 8. The beach cafe didn't open till 9. I stopped to make tea and eat along the path above the cove past Maenporth. It was then an easy walk into Falmouth and the holidaymakers. Mist came down with constant drizzle. I made contact with my friend, Chris, and he was to come to Falmouth to meet me at 2pm.

I resupplied at Tesco and then wandered off to find a coffee and while away the time until 2. I now have a comfortable bed for the night, having been well fed.

Five miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 8 - 10 September 2022

Lowland Point where I was last night is an excellent spot. Away early again. At Porthallow, I couldn't pass by Fat Apples Cafe. It was 8.45 and they didn't open for business till 9.30 but the door was open. They were happy to serve me with excellent coffee and toast and marmalade. Lovely people and they also offer nearly wild camping. Whilst here, I found I don't have to be in Falmouth till tomorrow. This made today more relaxed so I had another coffee.

At Gillan Creek, the tide was out so was able to wade the two channels of water. At Helford, I reached the village stores at 3.05 only to find they close at 3. My dwindling supplies of food will just see me through till tomorrow.

Helford

As I reached the ferry, the boat had just started off but it came back for me. At Durgan there was a NT point selling tea/coffee and ice creams. I had a tea and, with permission, filled my little milk bottle. A £1 donation well spent. From there I've had a leisurely walk to Rosemullion Head where I think I'll be OK for the night. Very exposed to view so will wait for the light to fade before pitching.

About twelve miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 7 - 9 September 2022

More rain overnight so I packed the tarp wet. However, it wasn't raining as I packed up and got underway early, around 7.30am, rejoining the coast path at Lower Predannack Cliff. The high level walk down to Lizard Point was glorious. On the way, I stopped to make coffee and pitched the tarp to dry.

Kynance Cove

Past Cadgewith, the path winding up and down, trying to get to Coverack before 6 to do a small resupply. Got there at 5.30 only to find they close at 5. They need to update their website. Anyway, not too serious. Leaving Coverack, the Bay Hotel has installed a water tap for walkers which I made use of. What a nice gesture.

About a mile past Coverack, at Lowland Point,  was a perfect pitch. About 17 miles today.

South West Coast Path Day 6 - 8 September 2022

Well, last night's pitch, although comfortable, wasn't a good choice. I got away by 6.45am after the second dog walker was going by. I left Oli still packing up and he was going into Porthleven to buy water.

I quickly rejoined the coast path. It wasn't raining at that point but much rain was forecast for the day. It was an enjoyable walk along the cliff top and then across Loe Bar. 

Loe Bar

I paused for a while in the church at Gunwalloe Church Cove to escape the weather for a bit. Then up to the cliffs again, dipping to Poldhu Cove, then up again where I had a break at the Polurrian Hotel, directly off the coast path. Here, I worked my way through a pot of coffee and made a plan for the day while the rain lashed down outside.

Looking out from Polurrian Hotel

So, plan made, I walked up to Mullion village in pouring rain, bought a large steak pasty and some saffron buns and then made my way by road to Sea View Camping at Predannack to end a short day's walking. I'm showered and shaved and have been under cover during the several downpours.

The day has ended strangely with the news this evening of the death of the Queen. I'll always recall where I was when I heard the news - under my tarp at Predannack.

About eight miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 5 - 7 September 2022

Leaving Penzance, it was a long walk with the railway line on one side and the sea on the other. The railway veered away and the walkway then led into Marazion.

St Michaels Mount

We then found the coast path which meandered up and down, past Praa Sands and then more ups and downs leading to Porthleven.

It had been dry nearly all day but in Porthleven the wind came on and it was clear there was heavy rain coming. I had planned to camp somewhere beyond Loe Bar but read online that there have been recent problems with wild campers who are regularly moved on. Anyway, the wind coming off the sea was not going to make for a peaceful night. We headed out of Porthleven to a campsite but before reaching it we found a gravel path with grass either side and we're pitched there. The rain has been torrential on and off. It's also a dog walkers route. Will need to be away very early in the morning.

15.5 miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 4 - 6 September 2022

Well, the weather forecast was out again. After another brief downpour after I'd pitched, that was it. I thought about packing up and going on but didn't. It rained a bit this morning after I woke up but it stopped before I left.

The morning started out well weather wise although windy up on the cliff top. Really lovely sea views and no-one else around. After an hour heavy rain arrived and this continued on and off all day.

Landmarks - for shipping, I think

Around 9am I met with Oli from Bristol, aged 18 and about to start uni in Plymouth, walking from Lands End to Plymouth. We stopped for breakfast just past the Minack Theatre at Porthcurno. 

Porth Curno

A while later I was ahead of Oli and he didn't appear and I didn't see him again till Lamorna Cove cafe at lunchtime. Seems he'd dropped a piece of kit and gone back to look for it, without success. Along the way I met two ladies from Alaska who were walking sections of the path with decent accommodation and lifts at the end of each day. They were not Sarah Palin fans!

We walked together for the afternoon. The path was tough, very undulating and rocky.

Arriving in Penzance just after 4pm, we debated what to do. Either to get past Marazion and look for a wild pitch or investigate the youth hostel. In the end, we phoned and booked camping but, on arrival, upgraded to beds in a dorm room. Either way we were able to have showers and use the kitchen.

Walked about 15 miles. A lot of it was quite slow. A good day, despite the rain.

South West Coast Path Day 3 - 5 September 2022

Last night's rain wasn't as bad as forecast and I kept completely dry. 

Portheras Cove

It wasn't far to Pendeen. I was hoping for a cafe at the Levant mine and first stopped for breakfast amongst the old mine buildings but there wasn't a cafe. However, a couple of hours later there was one at Cape Cornwall so I stopped for coffee and a pasty as well.

Cape Cornwall

There was a tricky rock scramble at Aire Point. I had a break overlooking Gwynver beach and then passed quickly through Sennen and on to Land's End which I passed by even more quickly.

The forecast rain arrived really swiftly at 4pm as I was on a path above crashing waves. I donned waterproofs and studied the map with the intention of heading inland a bit. After some quite torrential rain, I came upon a flat pitch at Nanjizal which was quite calm. After pitching, there was another downpour and then the wind started. The rain seems to have gone elsewhere but the wind is pretty bad. In retrospect, I wish I'd gone on but I was expecting much more rain. It's going to be a noisy night.

Thirteen miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 2 - 4 September 2022

I woke in the early hours with a bit of a problem. The heavy rain hadn't drained into the ground and I had water all around me and underneath me. I hadn't given the weather enough thought and items of clothing I'd left next to me were soaked. At least as I was in a bivy bag, I was dry and so was my quilt.

This morning I set off with various bits of clothing attached to the outside of my pack.

Today's weather was generally warm and sunny at times so the clothing eventually dried. At eleven I stopped to make coffee near Zennor and put the tarp up to dry.

During the afternoon I walked for a bit with a lady who lived locally. Heavy rain being forecast, she suggested a camping field at Morvah. It was only ten minutes from the coast path and was reasonably sheltered and, even better, was only £5. The two sites at Pendeen are twice as much.

I only walked about nine miles. It was quite hard going.

South West Coast Path Day 1 - 3 September 2022

Travelled from home to St Ives by train. Got a good price to travel first class and very nice it was too. At St Ives, I picked up water from a drinking water point outside the loos near the front and then didn't hang around, leaving the holidaymakers behind and joining the coast path just past Tate St Ives. It had rained earlier but was quite settled as I was walking. It was 5.30pm as I left. I walked for an hour until I found a good place to camp at Hor Point looking back at St Ives and out to sea. It's raining now.

Just two miles walked.

Looking back to St Ives

First night's camp