South West Coast Path Day 9 - 11 September 2022

The wind really got up in the night. The noise of my tarp flapping meant I had to go outside and tighten everything up. I suppose I was in quite an exposed spot on Rosemullion Head, a bit like being on a whale's back.

This is a photo of where I was last night, right in the centre in front of gorse bushes. Of course, my tarp isn't there as I took the photo having packed up and on my way.

I was at Maenporth by 8. The beach cafe didn't open till 9. I stopped to make tea and eat along the path above the cove past Maenporth. It was then an easy walk into Falmouth and the holidaymakers. Mist came down with constant drizzle. I made contact with my friend, Chris, and he was to come to Falmouth to meet me at 2pm.

I resupplied at Tesco and then wandered off to find a coffee and while away the time until 2. I now have a comfortable bed for the night, having been well fed.

Five miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 8 - 10 September 2022

Lowland Point where I was last night is an excellent spot. Away early again. At Porthallow, I couldn't pass by Fat Apples Cafe. It was 8.45 and they didn't open for business till 9.30 but the door was open. They were happy to serve me with excellent coffee and toast and marmalade. Lovely people and they also offer nearly wild camping. Whilst here, I found I don't have to be in Falmouth till tomorrow. This made today more relaxed so I had another coffee.

At Gillan Creek, the tide was out so was able to wade the two channels of water. At Helford, I reached the village stores at 3.05 only to find they close at 3. My dwindling supplies of food will just see me through till tomorrow.

Helford

As I reached the ferry, the boat had just started off but it came back for me. At Durgan there was a NT point selling tea/coffee and ice creams. I had a tea and, with permission, filled my little milk bottle. A £1 donation well spent. From there I've had a leisurely walk to Rosemullion Head where I think I'll be OK for the night. Very exposed to view so will wait for the light to fade before pitching.

About twelve miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 7 - 9 September 2022

More rain overnight so I packed the tarp wet. However, it wasn't raining as I packed up and got underway early, around 7.30am, rejoining the coast path at Lower Predannack Cliff. The high level walk down to Lizard Point was glorious. On the way, I stopped to make coffee and pitched the tarp to dry.

Kynance Cove

Past Cadgewith, the path winding up and down, trying to get to Coverack before 6 to do a small resupply. Got there at 5.30 only to find they close at 5. They need to update their website. Anyway, not too serious. Leaving Coverack, the Bay Hotel has installed a water tap for walkers which I made use of. What a nice gesture.

About a mile past Coverack, at Lowland Point,  was a perfect pitch. About 17 miles today.

South West Coast Path Day 6 - 8 September 2022

Well, last night's pitch, although comfortable, wasn't a good choice. I got away by 6.45am after the second dog walker was going by. I left Oli still packing up and he was going into Porthleven to buy water.

I quickly rejoined the coast path. It wasn't raining at that point but much rain was forecast for the day. It was an enjoyable walk along the cliff top and then across Loe Bar. 

Loe Bar

I paused for a while in the church at Gunwalloe Church Cove to escape the weather for a bit. Then up to the cliffs again, dipping to Poldhu Cove, then up again where I had a break at the Polurrian Hotel, directly off the coast path. Here, I worked my way through a pot of coffee and made a plan for the day while the rain lashed down outside.

Looking out from Polurrian Hotel

So, plan made, I walked up to Mullion village in pouring rain, bought a large steak pasty and some saffron buns and then made my way by road to Sea View Camping at Predannack to end a short day's walking. I'm showered and shaved and have been under cover during the several downpours.

The day has ended strangely with the news this evening of the death of the Queen. I'll always recall where I was when I heard the news - under my tarp at Predannack.

About eight miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 5 - 7 September 2022

Leaving Penzance, it was a long walk with the railway line on one side and the sea on the other. The railway veered away and the walkway then led into Marazion.

St Michaels Mount

We then found the coast path which meandered up and down, past Praa Sands and then more ups and downs leading to Porthleven.

It had been dry nearly all day but in Porthleven the wind came on and it was clear there was heavy rain coming. I had planned to camp somewhere beyond Loe Bar but read online that there have been recent problems with wild campers who are regularly moved on. Anyway, the wind coming off the sea was not going to make for a peaceful night. We headed out of Porthleven to a campsite but before reaching it we found a gravel path with grass either side and we're pitched there. The rain has been torrential on and off. It's also a dog walkers route. Will need to be away very early in the morning.

15.5 miles walked.

South West Coast Path Day 4 - 6 September 2022

Well, the weather forecast was out again. After another brief downpour after I'd pitched, that was it. I thought about packing up and going on but didn't. It rained a bit this morning after I woke up but it stopped before I left.

The morning started out well weather wise although windy up on the cliff top. Really lovely sea views and no-one else around. After an hour heavy rain arrived and this continued on and off all day.

Landmarks - for shipping, I think

Around 9am I met with Oli from Bristol, aged 18 and about to start uni in Plymouth, walking from Lands End to Plymouth. We stopped for breakfast just past the Minack Theatre at Porthcurno. 

Porth Curno

A while later I was ahead of Oli and he didn't appear and I didn't see him again till Lamorna Cove cafe at lunchtime. Seems he'd dropped a piece of kit and gone back to look for it, without success. Along the way I met two ladies from Alaska who were walking sections of the path with decent accommodation and lifts at the end of each day. They were not Sarah Palin fans!

We walked together for the afternoon. The path was tough, very undulating and rocky.

Arriving in Penzance just after 4pm, we debated what to do. Either to get past Marazion and look for a wild pitch or investigate the youth hostel. In the end, we phoned and booked camping but, on arrival, upgraded to beds in a dorm room. Either way we were able to have showers and use the kitchen.

Walked about 15 miles. A lot of it was quite slow. A good day, despite the rain.

South West Coast Path Day 3 - 5 September 2022

Last night's rain wasn't as bad as forecast and I kept completely dry. 

Portheras Cove

It wasn't far to Pendeen. I was hoping for a cafe at the Levant mine and first stopped for breakfast amongst the old mine buildings but there wasn't a cafe. However, a couple of hours later there was one at Cape Cornwall so I stopped for coffee and a pasty as well.

Cape Cornwall

There was a tricky rock scramble at Aire Point. I had a break overlooking Gwynver beach and then passed quickly through Sennen and on to Land's End which I passed by even more quickly.

The forecast rain arrived really swiftly at 4pm as I was on a path above crashing waves. I donned waterproofs and studied the map with the intention of heading inland a bit. After some quite torrential rain, I came upon a flat pitch at Nanjizal which was quite calm. After pitching, there was another downpour and then the wind started. The rain seems to have gone elsewhere but the wind is pretty bad. In retrospect, I wish I'd gone on but I was expecting much more rain. It's going to be a noisy night.

Thirteen miles walked.