South West Coast Path Day 8 - 13 March 2020 Hobby Drive, near Clovelly to Crackington Haven

Walking 6.20am to 5.00pm
Distance walked today 14 miles
Total distance walked 108 miles
Distance remaining 496 miles

When I walked this route in 2001, it was with my daughter, Philippa, then aged 18. In fact, we started from Lee Abbey (where she was at a summer camp) and so we didn't start from Minehead. I recall that we didn't walk the Taw estuary to Barnstaple and not did we estuary walk to Bideford either as we caught a ferry from Instow to Appledore. In addition, for as far as Boscastle, we only carried daypacks as we were met each evening and taken off to a campsite. Also, it was August and I don't remember any mud. Consequently, for me to reach St Ives by the end of next week is an impossibility.

I needed to reassess. My original intention was simply to make this walk a personal challenge. To raise money for Ucare was a last minute decision. I hope those who have kindly donated won't object if I change the plan a bit. Having made the decision last night, I got up extra early this morning (very loud owl nearby) and caught the 7.45 bus from Clovelly Visitor Centre into Bude, leapfrogging some 25 miles and getting me into Cornwall. A benefit is also that I've avoided the punishing stretch between Hartland Quay and Bude, about eight steep descents and ascents. I've done it before so I know what I've missed! Anyway, it's my walk so I decide what I'll do! To celebrate, I bought my first Cornish pasty to eat at lunchtime.

I stopped for a coffee at the café at Widemouth Bay and phoned home to announce the new plan. Amanda's commitments at home are falling by the wayside due to the Corona virus and so she's intending to revise her plan to come to St Ives at the end of next week. Instead, she's travelling to Newquay this Sunday, where she'll base herself for three nights and ferry me about as necessary. She will also arrive at St Ives on Thursday instead of Friday. This walk was originally unsupported but that won't now be the case for the next couple of weeks. I'll also get to sleep in a comfortable bed and won't be camping after tomorrow night and can walk with a daypack and hopefully cover more miles.

The new plan settled, I resumed walking. I had lunch (the pasty was good and won't be the last) on a bench before the descent to Millook. A couple came by and stopped to chat. They asked if I'd read The Salt Path. I replied that the book was the reason I was walking the SWCP now. So many people have read it.

I dropped down into another couple of steep combes. Then instead of another pointless climb and steep descent from Castle Point, I took the path to the tiny village of St Gennys, visiting the church and then rejoining the coast path a little further on. After that, there was a long descent to Crackington Haven. It was now around 5pm and rain was forecast imminently and into the evening. I found a grassy area close to where the coast path resumes and asked a person nearby whether she thought I might get away with camping there tonight. Better than that though she directed me to a very secluded spot which is where I now am. The day has ended rather nicely, occasional traffic noise and constant sound of the waves. It's been a strenuous day but exhilarating.

I'm asked sometimes about the food I eat. My evening meals for the last three nights have been: 1. Batchelors noodles (I discarded the chicken flavouring), a tin of sardines in tomato sauce and shavings of cheddar - a bit like a Mediterranean fish stew and very nice. 2. Chopped up pieces of cooked chicken in Uncle Ben's pilau rice. 3. Chopped up pieces of cooked chicken in Uncle Ben's egg fried rice. Not enough veg though.