Day 45 Tuesday - Langholm to Eskdalemuir

Walking 8.20am to 5.30pm
Distance walked today 18 miles
Total distance walked 653 miles
Distance left 399 miles

Last night's site was unmanned. It uses the facilities of Langholm Rugby Club which it adjoins. I phoned a number and the warden said he would come and give me the keypad number to access the facilities. He never arrived.

It would have been nice to have been here a couple of days later. On 21 May, the Stairwell Sisters (http://www.stairwellsisters.com/) are appearing at the Buccleugh Hall.

It rained overnight and I packed up quickly as more rain was threatening and was forecast. In fact, it didn't rain for the rest of the day although some areas not far away had torrential rain.

Today's walk started through parkland alongside the River Esk. A little way on, a riverside path on the map ended in thick undergrowth. I found an alternative route which took me through Langfauld Wood to Potholm. Here, I found another example of a route mishap. From Potholm up to a minor road a clear route was shown on the map but I came to a burn in a deep ravine. At one time there was a stone bridge and I could clearly see the continuation of the track on the other side. However, the bridge was gone and each side was fenced off. Rather than backtrack though, I slithered down, crossed the burn and scrambled up the other side. When I got there, I could see that there was an alternative route but it wasn't on the map.

Most of the rest of the day's walking was on tarmac but there was so little traffic and the valley scenery was glorious all the way.

A car stopped and I was asked for directions to Bentpath, a village I had passed through a mile back. I told the two ladies of my walk and came away with an invitation to dinner with them this evening.

My backroad joined the B709 which I followed for several miles through forest and beside forest. On this stretch, the river White Esk was never far away.

Eskdalemuir

A mile past the village of Eskdalemuir, a strange sight presented itself. Here, I came across a gold statue of the Buddha in an ornamental lake, a large white building with gold dome and prayer flags. Here was the Samye-Ling Tibetan Centre, a monastery and retreat. There was a tearoom so, of course, I went in. A mug of builder's tea was just the thing, although more ethnic beverages were available.

Samye-Ling

I then walked the remaining couple of miles to my dinner appointment. I've had a lovely evening with sisters, Nora and Jean and my sleeping bag is rolled out on the floor in front of the fireplace in this old farmhouse.

The farmhouse - what a superb location!