Saturday 13th September - Wooler to St Cuthbert's Cave

Yesterday evening was very civilised. Just behind the Black Bull, along a passageway, is the Milan, an excellent Italian restaurant. A very unprepossessing location but quite a gem. Neither the food nor the service could be faulted (although Howard wasn't over impressed with his canneloni) and the prices were reasonable. It is possibly the best place to eat in Wooler. We didn't actually see anywhere else.

Not a lot to say about today. We visited various shops in the high street as lunches for two days were needed. I regret to say that standards appear to be slipping. Normally, we would stop for elevenses a few miles along the way. Today, elevenses was a bacon roll and coffee in a cafe in Wooler! It was good to be seen supporting a local business.

Once again, we saw no other walkers. Also again, our route towards the coast was along tracks and narrow roads. The entire route today was along part of St. Cuthbert's Way which links Melrose and Holy Island (Lindisfarne). Frank walked this on his own last year.

The countryside is really opening out as we approach the coast; many arable fields and becoming somewhat less hilly, although still far from flat. What we are also seeing, due to the recent wet weather, are fields of barley which have not been harvested and are turning brown.

For others walking this stretch from Wooler, there is no water to be had, at least as far as St. Cuthbert's Cave (and probably further). Consequently, today is the first day that we've had to carry water all day to last us this evening, tomorrow morning and, possibly, the rest of the way to Beachcomber House camp site and our journey's end (about seven miles). Still, at least there is a "blogspot" on the way at the hamlet of Fenwick (assuming it's working).

Wild camps are possible at and in the vicinity of St. Cuthbert's Cave for those who wish to take two days to reach the coast from Wooler.

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