Great English Walk Day 23 - 10 April 2018

South of Pateley Bridge to Masham
Walking 7.00am to 4.00pm
Distance walked today 17 miles
Distance walked so far 365 miles
Distance left 218 miles

It rained all night and all of this morning but I slept really well. There was a lot of groundwater and my feet were wet within seconds and stayed wet for the rest of the day. I decided to road walk where possible.

Reaching the communications mast at Guise Cliff, I dropped down to enter Guise Cliff Wood. This was the area I had planned to camp last night had I had time before the rain started. The path down to the village of Glasshouses was very wet and muddy.

The rain just didn't stop. I took a break in the porch of St. Michael's church in Wilsill. 

On the hill up to the B6265, I photographed a footpath just off the road that was cut in two by a rushing torrent and glad I didn't have to go that way. 

Crossing the B6265, I followed the quiet road up to Low Bishopside and Pateley Moor, the rain, fog and wind increasing as I gained height. It was a bit grim really. I didn't stop and kept going until, finally, after six miles I fell into The Queen's Head at Kirkby Malzeard which, thankfully, was open, although I was the only customer most of the time I was there. My wettest clothing was taken by the landlord's wife to be tumble dried while I tucked in to steak and ale pie, chips and peas. A fire was blazing. They looked after me so well. 

By the time I left, the rain had stopped and it was just foggy. Despite this, as the fields were so wet, I decided to treat myself to a B&B and booked a room at The King's Head at Masham, only a further four miles walk. It's an excellent place and all my kit is now dry. No more rain is forecast till the day after tomorrow. 

Great English Walk Day 22 - 9 April 2018

Eastburn to south of Pateley Bridge
Walking 7.15am to 7.00pm
Distance walked today 17 miles
Distance walked so far 348 miles
Distance left 235 miles

I was able to set off this morning with all clothes washed. Thanks Mick and Julie for looking after me. See you both again soon, I hope.

It was a foggy morning as I road walked into Silsden, accompanied by busy early morning traffic. I was glad to be out the other side to the east to rejoin the route of the GEW. It was a long ascent but eventually worth it when I found myself above the fog, left behind in the valley below, and I was in bright sunshine.

It seemed in no time that I had reached the well defined path along the edge looking down on the scattered farms in Wharfedale and, further on, over Ilkley. I had the path to myself for most of the way but dog walkers eventually started appearing over Ilkley Moor. I made my way into the centre of the town. I would have liked to stay longer.

I followed the riverside path and then road walked to Denton, a delightful hamlet and then ascended to Denton Moor, quite featureless with no discernible path. However, the weather remained fine.

After Blubberhouses, I took the path on the right of the river , muddy at first, but not seeing either of the two bridges in the first half mile that were shown on the map. My route was continuing on the other side of the river but I went on along the right and then found a sign to Thruscross Reservoir which was what I wanted. The path then much improved.

Once past the reservoir, I followed lanes and field paths. Getting towards the day's end, a farmer I came across refused my request for camping so I went on. It started spitting with rain so I found a wild pitch as soon as I could, in the lee of a wall, well out of sight. The rain looks set for the night.

Sent from my iPhone

Great English Walk Day 21 - 8 April 2018

Stanbury to Eastburn
Walking 8.15am to 1.45pm
Distance walked today 9 miles
Distance walked so far 321 miles
Distance left 255 miles

I can really recommend the camping at The Wuthering Heights Inn, a great place.

It was Sunday morning, it was going to be a short day so I had a leisurely start, leaving at 8.15. My original plan was to walk via Haworth, a place I haven't visited for many years. I headed off in that direction but the map was deceptive. Ahead, I could see the road ahead going downhill and then a wide sweep up and round a hillside and, suddenly, visiting the town didn't seem so necessary. Instead, I turned off and took the lane down to Lumb Foot, an interesting little hamlet of no more than a farm and maybe half a dozen dwellings. A sign indicated that it was twinned with Lhasa, Tibet. A delightful ancient stone bridge took me over the River Worth.

Just after Todley Hill Farm, a footpath (shown on the map as a bridleway) led across several fields for a good half mile but it wasn't easy. The stone stiles in the walls were the most difficult I've ever experienced, with very little in the way of protruding stones to place the feet on either side and the gaps at the top to climb through had been filled in. Altogether not a good stretch.

The gate to the next footpath was padlocked. Indeed, my guidebook from 1996 referred to this and the path wasn't good but it was easy to avoid by road walking (and probably quicker).

The rest of the walking was straightforward and I arrived at the home of Mick and Julie, fellow Backpackers Club members, as previously arranged, in good time to have lots of time catching up and making a fuss of Barney, the dog. We've had a lovely meal together and I feel refreshed for an early start in the morning. I think I prefer a short day like this to a complete day off.

Great English Walk Day 20 - 7 April 2018

Mill Bank, Ripponden to Stanbury
Walking 8.10am to 5.45pm
Distance walked today 17 miles
Distance walked so far 312 miles
Distance left 264 miles

I was invited in for a quick breakfast. Jim's routine is an early swim so off he went. Eileen sent me off with two hard boiled eggs - a lovely thought. Jim later made a donation online to Ucare - thank you Jim and Eileen.

Mill Bank, nr Ripponden

It started raining as I left, cleared up and then rained for much of the morning. I joined the Calderdale Way and this took me to Cragg Vale, a straggling village. Decision time - Hebden Bridge was next on my route. I could get to it via a long steep climb and then by high level moorland paths or by mainly flat roads. I took the latter although there were actually some hilly bits. The B road to Mytholmroyd had a pavement all the way and a lane and unmade roads took me all the way to Hebden Bridge, a place I like very much.

Cragg Vale

I had a mission here, to find the Rohan shop. I had a mishap yesterday. On this trip, I brought two pairs of Rohan underpants, one to wear and the other to be washed or washed and drying. I'd pinned a washed pair to my backpack to dry and, unfortunately, I must have caught the safety pin on something and the pants were lost somewhere. I can't make one pair last two weeks (no, really). So, two new replacements have been bought. Louise and Kerry in the Rohan shop were very sympathetic and helpful. 

The rain meant I didn't linger in Hebden Bridge and set off to find the way out towards Haworth. My route was to take me via Hardcastle Crags but I cut out that loop and took the route called Crimsworth Dean on the map, much more direct. 

Just before Haworth, a camping/caravan site is shown on the map. Called Westfield, it is now holiday lodges. Anyway, I had an alternative and made for Stanbury, just west of Haworth, and the Wuthering Heights Inn where they have an area set aside for campers with excellent facilities at a very reasonable price. Here I met Julie and Andy who were keen to hear of my epic journey so far.

Camping at Wuthering Heights

Great English Walk Day 19 - 6 April 2018

Near Holmfirth to Ripponden
Walking 7.30am to 5.30pm
Distance walked today 13 miles
Distance walked so far 295 miles
Distance left 281 miles

I left this morning before anyone was about. So nice to have hot water. I even shaved.

I rejoined the GEW route after half a mile. The guide book was invaluable in navigating me through the streets of Meltham, although I diverted to find Morrisons for resupply.

It was easy walking to and around Deer Hill Reservoir. I was hearing gunfire. Looking at the map, I saw Danger Area and Rifle Range marked so realised I didn't need to dive for cover. There was then quite a steep, and tricky at times, descent to Lingards Wood, crossing a river and then the Huddersfield Narrow Canal and then a long climb back and forth to regain height above the valley before heading for Scammonden Reservoir. Some of the paths were boggy in places and quite slow going. The worst path of the day was off the A640, a bridleway by the Nont Sarah's pub. It was atrocious and deeply rutted and eroded.

Huddersfield Narrow Canal

It was then easy walking around the reservoir leading to a tunnel under the M62. After that, my route finding deteriorated somewhat and time was wasted. Eventually getting sorted out, it was a long descent to Ripponden and some of the paths were quite poor. I had hoped to reach Hebden Bridge tonight but this was now out of the question.

Towards Ripponden

On reaching Ripponden, I met Jim who asked me about my walk and, to cut a long story short, he offered me a pitch in his large garden on the edge of Ripponden and that's where I am. He and his wife, Eileen, have welcomed me into their home, gave me a gin and tonic and fed me. Lovely people and, after an evening of good conversation, I'm now feeling quite mellow.

The weather has been good today but disappointing mileage.

Great English Walk Day 18 - 5 April 2018

Top of Derwent Reservoir to near Holmfirth

Walking 7.10am to 6.00pm
Distance walked today 16 miles
Distance walked so far 282 miles
Distance left 294 miles

I ventured outside the tent last night to tighten the guys. I thought it was raining lightly but, in fact, it was swirling snow. I didn't stay out long! It was a cold night and I packed away an icy tent. The track over the moor towards the Flouch Inn was easy to follow. Camping where I did was a wise decision. Snow had settled on the moor and the temperature was clearly several degrees colder. There would have been nowhere to camp. It was a crisp, clear morning, quite beautiful. Grouse were all around, disturbed by my presence.

As I descended, numerous walkers were coming the other way having parked at the Flouch car park. On a good day it's obviously a popular area. Last night, had I had time to make the crossing, I would have found a good wild camping spot amongst the first trees I came to (SK198005). 

After Thurlstone Moor, I joined the Trans Pennine Trail for some easy walking, stopping along the way for lunch and to spread my tent out to dry. It's a popular trail as evidenced by the number of walkers and cyclists, even on a weekday. I then took the quiet road up to Harden Clough and skirted a large forest and then a track eventually taking me to Holme. Here I stopped to chat to Susan Morgan walking her lovely chocolate labrador. She's recently acquired a new camper van and is having a great time with it and I told her something of the travels I've had in mine. She sent me on my way with some granola biscuits. Chance meetings like this really perk me up. 

By this time, I was varying my route as I'd decided I didn't need to go into Holmfirth. By Digley Reservoir, I scouted around for a possible wild camp but there was nothing suitable and it was a little early and I was enjoying walking into a fine evening. With Meltham getting closer, I decided to stop somewhere before then. On impulse, I turned down a lane and called at the first house I came to. I struck lucky with Roger and Margaret. Instead of camping in their garden, I'm on a camp bed in a newly converted outbuilding with my own loo and hot and cold water. People are so kind. 

Great English Walk Day 17 - 4 April 2018

Hathersage to top of Derwent Reservoir
Walking 11am to 5.30pm
Distance walked today 13 miles
Distance walked so far 266 miles
Distance left 310 miles

A leisurely start to what was forecast to be a wet day but it couldn't be put off. My planned route was to climb up to Stanage Edge and then continue along Derwent Edge, high level walking before dropping down to Derwent Reservoir but I thought a lower level walk might be preferable in view of the weather.

Therefore, I took the Derwent Valley Heritage Trail just south of Hathersage. It was easy field walking for a while but then, when the path entered woodland it narrowed and was extremely wet and muddy. I thought now and then that I'd made the wrong decision but a couple I met this afternoon had been up on Derwent Edge and said they had walked through hail storms. At least I only had April showers and a few spells of continuous rain, possibly not quite as bad as forecast.

New shoes after an hour's use!

Once I reached Thornhill, I followed a cycle way and from then for the rest of the day I was on good surfaces alongside first Ladybower and then Derwent Reservoirs. 

I finished at 5.30. I would have gone further but I was about to strike out across Howden Moors for a few miles and I had no idea about camping possibilities whereas, where I am by Cranberry Clough Brook, is reasonable ground and I'll make an early start in the morning.