Backpackers Exmoor weekend

The weekend didn't get off to a good start, to say the least. My usual packing list was composed ages ago and I've been using a tarp for the last ten years or so. I thought this time I'd take my new £200 off Laser Comp. When I was the best part of thirty miles from home it suddenly dawned on me that I'd left the tent pole at home. I turned around and went back to get it. Absolute pain. I then hit the M5 around Bristol at 5.15pm, the worst possible time. It took ninety minutes to get clear of it. As a result, I didn't get to Malmsmead (between Porlock and Lynton) until 8 o'clock, by which time it was dark. I took the wrong road off the main road down to Malmsmead, having to negotiate a hairpin bend on the single track land and then Robber's Bridge, with a stone sided wall either side. I just breathed in and hoped for the best.

I didn't see any of the other attendees until the next morning. There were just five of us, a very select bunch. I fancied a day out walking on my own on the Saturday so set off south towards Badgworthy Water across the river from Cloud Farm. It was a perfect morning.

 

 

Walking east of Badgworthy Hill, I passed by Larkbarrow and then on to the lane by Alderman's Barrow. The Exmoor Hunt was much in evidence, milling around me at times. They were pursuing a stag, I was told. At Larbarrow Corner, I went westwards on the Macmillan Way West by Warren Farm to Prayway Head and then along the B3223 until I veered off east on a bridleway at SS764423 across moorland where I stopped for a snack at Hoccombe Water. I then headed back to Badgworthy Water and Malmsmead. A really nice day.

 

Saturday evening was spent at the Staghunters Inn at Brendon. I didn't eat there but others did and said the food was good. Not fancy but good wholesome fare, e.g. liver, venison, etc.

 

A scene from Lorna Doone

Sunday's walk was back down to Badgworthy Water (really lovely), towards Larkbarrow and then up to the hamlet of Oare. At this point, I was with Andrew (probably in his late 60s) and Ian, aged 73. Andrew was navigating and led us the wrong side of a field boundary. We ended up having to negotiate a double barbed wire fence, scrambling up a steep bank and then jumping over another fence to tumble down the other side. It didn't end there! We found ourselves in the garden of Oare Manor House. Walking down the driveway, there were a pair of electric gates separating us from the road. Andrew was trying to give Ian a stirrup lift over but they were too high ( I don't know how the last man would have got over). Anyway, I saw a way out, up a rock wall and over a fence into the churchyard and that's where we went. All very unorthodox.



Backpackers Oxfordshire weekend

It was very nice to have a Club weekend not far from home that I could walk to. I scooted home from work at lunchtime and, with everything packed the night before, I was on my way at 1.15. It was a lovely day with fair weather forecast for most of the next two days so I didn't even bother to take waterproofs. Without any other warm top either, I took a Golite Wisp windshirt, no longer made but an excellent very lightweight garment that is windproof and so stops a bit of chill in the evenings and is moderately water resistant.

The afternoon's walk to Barford St. Michael took me through Little Tew and Great Tew (where it would have been all too easy to fall into the Falkland Arms but time didn't really permit this). I arrived at Barford around 6.20 where, after a quick meal, I joined others at The George where there was a mini beer festival going on which was an unexpected treat.

Next morning, a group of us set off southwards, passing through Nether Worton and Over Worton, and then whiling away some time at the White Horse at Duns Tew, an excellent pub but, I suspect, in great danger of closing if the locals continue not to support it. We were the only customers apart from a couple of cyclists passing through. Then on through Steeple Aston, the other side of which our eyes were caught by the Rousham Eyecatcher.

We then crossed the River Cherwell and the adjacent Oxford Canal at Lower Heyford, going north to skirt Upper Heyford and then east to a commercial site next to the former USAF base. I chose to stop just before then where I planned to string my hammock up in a nearby wood. I've got this down to a fine art now and it only took a few minutes, doing so some 25 feet in from the path. After a quickly prepared meal and reading suspended above the ground for a while I decided that I didn't much like the look of the clouds coming over so I put my tarp above me (in the event, it didn't rain overnight).

A little while later, after dozing and reading, I heard a twig crack and, lifting the tarp up, there was a man standing only some 10-15 feet away from me. I didn't have my glasses on so didn't see him that clearly. I said, "hello?" but without a sound, he was off. I don't know how long he'd been there. Maybe he'd just been curious about the tarp and had come over for a closer look but it was a bit unnerving. For a while I considered moving elsewhere as I prefer to be invisible to others when wild camping. In the end, I stayed put but it was a lesson learned for the future. I could have been further from the path and should have been. Anyway, he didn't come back and I slept quite well.

I was away by 5.10 the next morning very quickly and set off south west along the line of Aves Ditch, a pre-Saxon ditch and bank structure, which I left after a couple of miles to head west to Northbrook and then back over the canal and river. Here I stopped for breakfast, the hot coffee being very welcome. The sun was out and a fine day was promised. Then over the railway and into Tackley. Not far from here, I realised the map I had didn't quite cover the ground I was on and I struggled to get my bearings. In the end, I took rather a long way round to get to the village of Wootton where, sadly, the pub there, the Killingworth Castle, was an earlier victim of lack of patronage. Then up to Glympton and, on the edge of the Glympton Estate, a grand antlered stag emerged on the path about fifty yards ahead of me - a fine sight but not for long! Crossing the A3400, I passed into the Ditchley Park Estate where the clouds came over quite quickly and from then on I spent the afternoon largely avoiding the intermittent showers by being in woodland or being able to take shelter beneath trees and hedges.

On the edge of the Estate, I joined the Wychwood Way back to home. This was a good day - twenty miles walked.

Golite Breeze pack

My favourite pack is the Breeze, which I've had since around 2001. I have a couple of other packs but this is the one I invariably return to. So simple, so light and very little to go wrong. Now, it seems to have gained recognition as a style icon.

Challenge Day 14 May 24

Another hot day. A number of Challengers set off early for the eight or so miles to the coast, depending on their chosen finishing points. We weren't due to meet Bert at St. Cyrus until midday so were in no great rush. We left shortly before 9am.

It was a road walk all the way but the roads were rural and quiet. Entering St. Cyrus, we made for the cliff top where we found Bert on a bench at the top of the cliff path, high above the beach. The tide was out a fair way from the wide, flat beach. Frank and I made our way down the stony zigzag path and dipped our shoes in the sea.

We then repaired to a café for a bite to eat and then caught a bus into Montrose where we checked out at Challenge Control at the Park Hotel, obtained our certificates and T-shirts and then to the camp site to get pitched with all the other Challengers who were already there and others who arrived after us.

In the evening we ate at the Picture House as we weren't going to the Challenge dinner. Unfortunately, they've stopped serving real ale as they can't sell it. Such a difference between the beer drinking habits of the Scots and the English, and yet, we had very good locally brewed beer - the Moulin Brewery - at the Atholl Arms in Blair Atholl.

We went to the Park Hotel afterwards for the speeches and awards. An award was given to Bill Robertson, aged 78, who completed his 30th crossing this year. He's such a self-effacing man, he always checks out and goes straight home. Many have never seen him.

The oldest successful Challenger was aged 89.

Another good end to another Challenge (my third).
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Challenge Day 13 May 23

Another hot day was in store for us. Taking the road out of Tarfside, we called in to The Retreat for tea and toast (second breakfast). Crossing the bridge over the River North Esk at NO534783 (where we were joined by Vicki Allen), we followed the track alongside the south side of the river for about four miles, past the Rocks of Solitude (must look up how the name originated), looking down to see the water rushing through a rocky gorge. Then, continuing along the minor road at Dalbog, taking the field path on the bend in the road, which emerged at Lochside on the B966, from where it was but a short walk into Edzell.

A refreshing lager shandy was followed by lunch at the Tuck Inn café, easily identified by the mound of backpacks outside.

Then, after crossing the river bridge (accessed by a path to the side of the post office), instead of enduring the 5km straight road walk to the North Water Bridge camp site, we used a couple of back routes, first on the south side of the road, passing through Arnhall farm and then to the road and then, after maybe 2km on the road, taking the left turn by Capo wood and following the straight track to emerge back on the road just before the site. We passed by a very imposing turreted house called Inglismaldie on the left and a dovecote some distance away in an adjoining field.

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Challenge Day 12 May 22

Woke up at 5am and happened to notice two ticks embedded in the back of my wrist so occupied a couple of minutes removing them. Then slept till 7, by which time, the sun was well up and it was really warm.

Looking back to the bothy

From Shielin of Mark, it was a case of aiming generally for the right hand shoulder of Muckle Cairn, a distance of a mile or so. It wasn't nearly so wet underfoot as last year but was rough walking, with no path; just plenty of heather, bog and rough grass. On attaining the track which crosses the top, we then walked along it until we reached the track down into Glen Lee. A short way along here, we came across a burn which crosses the track on its way down to Water of Lee. It was flat and calm, crossable by stepping stones. What a contrast to last year when it was a fast flowing torrent. 

The same burn a year ago!

Stopped for second breakfast at Stables of Lee, going inside to be out of the sun. Frank thought it should be first lunch but conceded when he realised that it was only 10.15. It was a tuna roll for him whatever we called the occasion.

First lunch proper was had at the Kirkton end of Loch Lee. From there, we took the direct off road path to Tarfside, arriving at about 2.30. We headed straight to St. Drostan's Hostel where, each year the hostel offers food and accommodation to Challengers, manned by Challenger volunteers. After refreshment and some good company, we went down the road to pitch. As far as I can count, there are now 59 tents pitched here.

We were told that 52 Challengers have withdrawn from the event, one of the reasons being exhaustion. More detail will be in the Final Report in due course.

It's been really hot today. One and a half days to go.

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Challenge Day 11 May 21

The local oystercatchers were up and about early and being very noisy about it.
Bert hobbled/shuffled off to the doctor's surgery. Frank and I topped up food supplies at the little Co-op (catching a glimpse of a red squirrel in the high street) and then set off up the path opposite the camp site, through the wood uphill to meet the path that leads round by the Lion's Face rock. Then down through the wood on the other side to the road, following this until the old Invercauld Bridge, over this and then into forest belonging to the Balmoral Estate.

We aimed for Balmoral House to visit the tearooms there. On the way and within sight of the House we came across a man busying himself with a circle of boulders by the side of the estate road. 

The Diamond Jubilee Cairn - base level

Feeling nosey I asked what he was doing. He was the project manager employed in the construction of a Diamond Jubilee cairn which is likely to be unveiled around June. He was a little coy about when this would be and what the consequences would be if it wasn't ready in time. Money for the cairn has been by way of voluntary contributions from estate employees and local holders of Royal Warrants. There are eleven other "Royal" cairns around the estate but this will be the first to be constructed for over a hundred years.

Leaving the estate past the Royal Lochnagar Distillery (to be visited another time), we took the track south for several miles, eventually reaching the little visitor centre at the Spittal of Glenmuick. The sun was quite hot and I made good use of my umbrella as a sun shade, feeling quite cool underneath.

We saw an adder which crossed the track just ahead of us but there wasn't time to get the camera out.


There was quite a little group of Challengers gathered, sitting in the shade outside the visitor centre at Spittal of Glenmuick, apparently putting off the longish climb up to their, and our, intended pitch around the bothy at Shielin of Mark. Frank and I only stopped for a quick calorie intake and then set off up the side of the burn, so different from this time last year when hurricane winds and rain made life so very interesting.

The bothy can be tricky to locate as it's tucked in the near side of the next valley. On previous occasions, I've followed a very wet route to well overshoot it to the west and then follow the burn until it comes into sight. This time, however, with time to spare if necessary, we decided to head straight for it on a compass bearing. A group of six young Hungarian Challengers asked if they could follow us, to which we agreed. Our route was a little wet in places and through peat hags and groughs. In wet weather, this might be rather messy. Anyway, over the top we went and were very pleased with ourselves when the bothy appeared just below us.

We are pitched right next to the burn. There are around sixteen tents pitched here with two others a couple of hundred yards away.

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