Day 7 Saturday - Treworra Barton to Lifton

Walking 8.10am to 4.30pm
Distance walked 15 miles
Distance left 970 miles

The temperature dropped below freezing last night. The tarp had beads of ice on it. It was a lovely morning yet again. John even brought me a mug of tea. What a perfect host!

From Tremail I took a footpath route to cut across to the lane leading up to Hallworthy. It wasn't signposted and I had to climb over a couple of fences to get to the lane. That done, it was road walking for a few miles. Part of it was along the A395 but what made it moderately bearable was the good number of old and/or interesting cars on some sort of a rally.

Treneglos church (I think)

At a hamlet named Tresmeer, I stopped for a snack in the cemetery, looking at some of the gravestones. As I was sitting, an elderly lady entered with some flowers to leave on a grave. We got talking and in one of those coincidences that happen, it transpired that her daughter-in-law is the sister of someone I know back home. Amazing.

There really isn't anything to be said about the remaining few miles into Launceston. It was pleasant enough with open views to the south and the sun continued to shine.

Walking into Launceston

Launceston was well populated with young teenagers with not a lot to do. I scoffed a pastie with another to eat cold tomorrow. I then made my way out of town to pick up the Two Castles Way in the Tamar Valley. It was a short way along here that I left Cornwall behind and entered Devon.

I have found a small site just outside Lifton. Very friendly and I have the company of some sheep just a few feet away the other side of a fence.

Day 7 Saturday

2.30pm Sitting in the centre of Launceston eating my last Cornish pastie in Cornwall.

Day 6 Friday - Hellandbridge to Treworra Barton

Walking 9.15am to 5.15pm
Distance walked 13 miles
Distance left 985 miles

Last night was somewhat later than I've been used to this week. The church was packed. I don't think I'd heard anything by Messiaen before. They played "Quartet for the End of Time". However, I had "legs" the whole time - caused by a build up of lactic acid, I think; I just couldn't get them comfortable. Sleep was probably what was needed and I may have nodded off once or twice.

I forgot to mention in yesterday's posting that I was VERY BRAVE. I normally try and avoid fields with horses, not being at all confident with them. However, so as not to go on long detours, I resolved to go through all fields whatever may be in them (apart from, maybe, herds of young cattle - the very inquisitive kind that tend to give chase). Yesterday, two paddocks in quick succession had a skittish racehorse types in each, both of which ran circles round me. Then, further on there was a field with ten horses in but they completely ignored me. Today there've been wild ponies and they haven't been interested in me at all. So, it's the racehorsey ones to be wary of perhaps.

David dropped me back at Hellandbridge this morning. A lovely sunny start to the day and I continued along the Camel Trail to Merry Meeting where I left it to follow minor roads to St. Breward.

The Camel Trail

I called in at the PO/internet cafe in St. Breward and, given that I must keep up my calorie intake, I had a cream tea (scones, jam, clotted cream) with a round of sausage sandwiches with Branston to take away (for lunch).

From there to Tremail it was pleasant walking, quite a bit of it off road. For once, I managed to get good radio reception and listened to a performance of Bach's St. John Passion on Radio 3. I had excellent views of Rough Tor for quite a while.

Just beyond Crowdy Reservoir I had hoped to find a path through Davidstow Woods but it was all securely fenced. I had to road walk around the woods but it was then easy to walk across the old airfield beyond.

The map showed a footpath from the airfield to Tremail but it wasn't signposted at all and in places it was extremely muddy. Towards the end of it I was accosted by a farmer who maintained that there wasn't a right of way. He had a good moan about ramblers (meaning members of the Ramblers Association) leaving gates open. I assured him that I had shut all his gates and he "kindly" allowed me to continue through his farm yard to the road. For those readers interested, this path is between GR SX151855 and SX159863.

I then headed for a camping/caravan site as shown on the map at Treworra, just outside Tremail. However, for the past two years, it has been a new development of holiday bungalows. I was directed further up the lane to a place that "did tents". This was, in fact marquee hire, somewhat different. The man there wasn't able to help so I called at the adjoining property, Treworra Barton a collection of holiday cottages owned by John and Maddy, who live in the main house. Ah, the kindness of strangers. I'm pitched in one of the garden areas and Maddy brought me out a tray of tea and cake. Life is good.


John and Maddy are going to the cinema in Wadebridge to see "The Boat that Rocked" and I have been entrusted with the task of shutting in the chickens at dusk. Maddy asked if I'd like to go but I had to respond, "Who'll put the chickens away?" Duh.

Day 5 Thursday - Killaworgey to Hellandbridge

Walking 7.40am to 5.00pm
Distance walked 16 miles
Distance left 998 miles

I left early before the JCB started up and before Tim was about. I had a really good night's sleep. This was a great night's halt. I really struck lucky. It had rained a little during the night but I packed up in the dry although it came on to rain not long after. It rained on and off all day but it was not a great problem.

The way took me over Castle-an-Dinas, a neolithic camp, very windy but quite impressive. I made contact with my hosts for tonight at a call box at Tregonetha. A short way on, I saw a signpost for a hamlet named Demelza; surely the inspiration for Demelza in Poldark? Then on to Withiel, Ruthernbridge and on to the Camel Trail which I followed all the way to Hellandbridge, my hosts, David and Jill meeting me along the way. We shan't dwell on the wrong turning I took on the trail, heading into Bodmin! A little aberration.

Withiel church

At Ruthernbridge I came across this Morris Minor; there was possibly another but it was beneath a green tarpaulin.

We are now at a village near St. Endellion where, if I manage to stay awake, I shall enjoy a Messaien string quartet at St. Endellion Church, part of the Easter Festival there. Supper has been typical hiker's fare - starting with scallops, followed by rare fillet steak with frite followed by local cheeses and strawberries with clotted cream.

Day 4 Wednesday - Point to Killaworgey

Walking 8.55am to 6.30pm
Distance walked 19 miles
Distance left 1014 miles

I was fed really well by Stella yesterday evening and I headed off to bed early. I find that I need eight to nine hours sleep after walking day after day, instead of the usual six.

The weather was perfect after overnight rain and stayed good all day. I took the lane around the creek on the way to Truro, bought a pastie (from the same shop that yesterday's came from) and made my way via lanes and a disused railway route into the city. Truro is, I think, our second smallest city after St. Davids and I'm very fond of it, knowing it quite well.

Heading north, my way took me under the viaduct and up towards Idless and then through St. Clement's Wood. It was impossible to go wrong here as there was a wide track north through the wood, owned by the Forestry Commission.


Crossing the A39, I passed through St. Erme and then followed narrow lanes up to Mitchell, there crossing over the A30 by a bridge, very busy as usual. It was then minor roads to White Cross. In three hours of walking along those lanes I was passed by only two cars (but barked at by several dogs). I expected to camp at one of the two sites shown on the map at White Cross. The first was a holiday park, with bar, shop and more. The bar staff referred me on to the other site. I went there and found that one even more holiday park-like. The duty manager was called. He said that they no longer catered for campers. In a way I was quite relieved. He was happy to fill my water bottle (it holds two litres) and I walked on for a mile or so, thinking that something would turn up (it always does). I came across what seemed to be a building site, in fact, a large timber house in course of construction. A man came out into the lane and I asked about camping. He said I could camp there and it would soon be quiet once the JCB had finished working.


Tim showed me to a perfect pitch behind the excavations. I have the use of a loo in a barn near the mobile home where he and his wife are living while the house is being built. His brother lives about four miles from me back home - what a small world. Thank you Tim for your friendly welcome.

Day 3 Tuesday - Porkellis to Point

Walking 10.15am to 4.20pm
Distance walked 11 miles
Distance left 1033 miles

I was dropped off at Porkellis at 10.20am after a guided tour of the alpacas' quarters. Chris was waiting at the Star Inn and we spent the day walking back to his house at Point, south of Truro.

Chris, me and Dave

The weather was fine, such a change from yesterday. Chris had brought some excellent Cornish pasties and we consumed these while waiting for the Golden Lion to open.

Stithians Reservoir

Apart from the walk alongside the reservoir, the day was road walking but very pleasant and conversation helped the day pass quite quickly. We saw a lizard and it co-operated long enough for us to take photos.

Does anyone know what it is? In fact, might it be a newt?

Carnon Viaduct on the cycle trail from Devoran to Portreath

Day 3 Tuesday

12.15 pm A twitter! Chris and me having a pint of Tribute at the Golden Lion by Stithians Reservoir.