Great English Walk Day 30 - 17 April 2018

Plankey Mill to forest south of Birney Hill
Walking 6.40am to 7.40pm
Distance walked today 20 miles
Distance walked so far 460 miles
Distance left 92 miles

An early start to get the final mileage down. I continued walking alongside and above the River Allen until I emerged into a National Trust car park with open loo facilities which was very convenient. Although the GEW route goes through Bardon Mill, that was out of my way and I was too early for any shop that might be open so I walked along roads and tracks northwards to the Housesteads museum (closed till 10am) and Hadrian's Wall. As Housesteads wasn't open, I had to climb fences to get into the area containing the remains of the Roman buildings and out again the other side.

I walked the Wall path for half a mile but it was very up and down with more to come so I dropped down to the B6318 which runs south of the Wall but without the undulations and followed this for 1.5 miles until a point where the Wall path descended to meet and run alongside the road and so rejoined it. In the two miles I walked this section, I passed more walkers than in the whole of this journey so far, I think.

Where the Wall path switches to the other side of the road, I took a bridleway north and then a little used lane past High and Low Moralee farms, before arriving in Wark where I bought a few food items and a very sparsely stocked shop.

The bridge at Wark

Crossing the River North Tyne, I walked to Birtley. Here I met Lesley Gosling who kindly filled a water bottle (and gave me a glass of orange juice) and, after hearing of my walk, sent me on my way with home baked cheese scones and a satsuma. It cheered me up no end.

From Birtley, I took field paths to the A68 and then a long farm track and over a couple of fields to enter the forest. I'm camped maybe a hundred yards inside but, so far, there isn't a proper path, just rough tussocky grass between densely planted conifers. It's very wet underfoot so I shall negotiate my way through in the morning. I'm not really looking forward to it! Anyway, the remaining mileage is now down to double digits.

Great English Walk Day 29 - 16 April 2018

Blanchland to Plankey Mill
Walking 8.50am to 6.20pm
Distance walked today 17 miles
Distance walked so far 440 miles
Distance left 115 miles

Frank provided a magnificent breakfast - egg, bacon, sausage and black pudding rolls with coffee. What a star - and a good friend.

He drove me back to Blanchland. I forgot to mention in yesterday's posting that, having reached Blanchland, I am now in the final county of the GEW, Northumberland.

Following the route of the GEW, I went four miles west as far as the abandoned farm at Riddlehamhope. Just before then, the path went through a belt of woodland that would have made a very nice wild camp had it been at the end of the day.

The route then turned northward to the farm of Harwood Shield and then west, where it entered the long traverse of Hexhamshire Common, a wide open heather-covered moorland. Half way across I managed a late elevenses out of the constant wind in an unlocked shelter hut, presumably used mainly by grouse shooters. It was very welcome.

Hexhamshire Common

I eventually reached a road that took me down into Allendale Town. I was pleasantly surprised that the whole of the route was clearly defined, not what I was expecting. I bought a few things from the Co-op before moving on. I was last here in 2007, catching a bus to Hexham on a Lakeland to Lindisfarne traverse, having got quite wet after 36 hours of constant rain and heading to the youth hostel at Once Brewed to dry out.

From Allendale, I followed a lovely riverside path alongside the River Allen, which I largely remained close to for the rest of the day. Entering National Trust woodland, I came across the site of a hilltop fortification called Staward Peel, almost all evidence of it long since gone but interesting nonetheless. The path then meandered steeply down to join another up and down riverside path before emerging into a field at Plankey Mill, a farm. Here, my guide book told me I would cross the river by a suspension bridge but this had at some time been replaced by another bridge.

Over the bridge I entered the 29 acre Briarwood Banks Nature Reserve and, although I had intended walking further, I didn't think I would find a finer wild pitch so here I stopped. I was able to freshen up my feet in the nearby river.

A good day weather-wise, no rain and a decent distance covered.

Great English Walk Day 28 - 15 April 2018

Stanhope to Blanchland
Walking 8.15am to 1.40pm
Distance walked today 11 miles
Distance walked so far 423 miles
Distance left 132 miles

For reasons that will become clear, I was able to leave my pack at the site (under a caravan) and walk with just my chest pack (converted for use as a shoulder bag), waterproofs and a water bottle.

I crossed the River Wear by a stepping stone bridge. 

After a short road walk out of the village, I took a footpath by the medieval bridge which followed a course between the river and a disused railway. After a while, the path became so churned up by cows that I walked the railway line for a while before passing through a caravan park.

At Eastgate, I followed a path through fields but following Rookhope Burn and then walked into Rookhope. It was getting misty so I decided to road walk even though the distance was slightly longer. The road climbed and the fog descended although it wasn't particularly cold. A few vehicles passed me and quite a few cyclists as this was part of the C2C route. It felt very remote. I took a photo of a dead animal on the road, not quite sure what it was and couldn't work out how it had died as there no obvious injury.

Descending to Hunstanworth and then Blanchland (following the riverside path) I called it a day and had lunch overlooking the river bridge. My friend, Frank, arrived some 40 minutes later to take me back (via Stanhope for my pack) to his home at Westgate to be fed and watered. He and his wife, Sally, were excellent hosts. I met Frank walking the Pennine Way last year and we've kept in touch. I shall be delivered back to Blanchland in the morning.

The Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland

Great English Walk Day 27 - 14 April 2018

Romaldkirk to Stanhope
Walking 8.45am to 4.00pm
Distance walked today 11 miles
Distance walked so far 411 miles
Distance left 142 miles*

I breakfasted with Charlie and Jeanette and they pointed me in the right direction, after Jeanette gave me a hug. Such lovely people to have met purely by chance. Thank you both for your kindness.

It was set to be a decent weather day. I had a route choice to make, given that I need to complete this walk by Monday, 23 April. The GEW route today, just past the village of Eggleston, would take me on a wide loop eastwards through Hamsterly Forest. Alternatively, and this is what I did, I could walk on a relatively quiet road virtually straight from Romaldkirk to Stanhope. There were a couple of long inclines but the moorland views were clear and wide ranging. It was quite enjoyable and cut seven miles out. If over the next few days I see similar opportunities I shall take them. My main aim is to walk all the way from Chepstow to Berwick and not slavishly follow the route of the GEW, good though it is. Thus, the mileage figures at the top of the blog postings appear inconsistent.

Once I reached Stanhope, I was planning to find a wild camp. I could see some patches of woodland beyond the village as I descended from the moorland. However, coming into the village, I could see a dozen or so motorhomes and caravans just off the road so I wandered in. What it was was a five day meet of the Camping and Caravanning Club, not an actual campsite. As I am a member I was made welcome and paid my £7.00. There are proper loo facilities here. A nearby couple, John and Sheila invited me into their caravan for a cup of tea. Other people have been very friendly.

Great English Walk Day 26 - 13 April 2018

Near to CB Inn, Arkengarthdale to Romaldkirk
Walking 8.00am to 7.00pm
Distance walked today 15 miles
Distance walked so far 400 miles
Distance left 183 miles*

Once again, many thanks to Lee for the provision of a pitch for the night. We were lulled to sleep by the rushing of the nearby river. Lee wasn't around when we left.

It was a foggy morning, again, as we continued our road walk up to The Stang. It was generally uphill most of the way, about three miles. Some of the forest had been felled and replanted. Further on, there would have been possibilities for stealth camping here and there.

After the forest, the quiet road continued to the A66 dual carriageway which was busy in both directions so we took our time in crossing safely. On then into Barnard Castle.

At the beginning of this walk, I had bought a cheap lightning to USB lead for my iPhone but, when connecting my iPhone to a battery pack for recharging, it had proved unreliable. Howard had lent me his but in Barnard Castle, a computer shop, Tinker Dog, was able to sell me a genuine Apple lead. The proprietor (whose name I forgot to ask) gave me a donation for Ucare, so kind.

Howard and I then went over the road to a cafe for egg and bacon sandwiches and coffee. Howard was heading back home from here tomorrow. I had planned to walk with him to his campsite so we went the short way to a footbridge over the River Tees. When we got to it, it was closed for some reason. Therefore, we parted company at that point, he to go back to town and to his campsite another way and I went on following the Teesdale Way alongside the river. It was generally a good path, although muddy in places. It was good to have had company for a couple of days.

Along the Tees

Near Cotherstone, however, it all came to grief, navigation-wise. My aim had been to find a wild camp further on in Hamsterly Forest. My route took me through a caravan park. First, I managed to exit it the wrong way. A farmer gave me directions but I couldn't find the right way. I found myself going through the caravan park again. A resident gave me directions but I found myself going in a circle again! To avoid a third visit to the caravan park, I crossed the bridge towards Cotherstone and rejoined the Teesdale Way but I couldn't find the path past a farm (Woden Croft) so made my way by the farm road to the B6277 into Romaldkirk. I clearly wasn't going to get to Hamsterly Forest before nightfall.

I thought of stealth camping in the churchyard but a couple I met, Charlie and Jeanette, walking their dog, Barney (the second Barney dog on this walk), offered me facilities at their home nearby. Absolutely amazing. We have spent a delightful evening over spaghetti bolognese and wine putting the world to rights and I've had a welcome shower. Were were later joined by their friend, Lesley and her dog. I shall spend a warm night stretched out on a settee in front of the fire.

A serendipitous end to the day.

* Mileage remaining - according to my maps, I have 161 miles left to do. I haven't stuck precisely to the GEW route by any means so this may account for the discrepancy. I'll work it out when I get home. I've certainly walked every inch of the way so far.

Great English Walk Day 25 - 12 April 2018

Leyburn to Arkengarthdale
Walking 8.30am to 4.00pm
Distance walked today 10 miles
Distance walked so far 385 miles
Distance left 198 miles

A foggy day but, at least, no rain. We walked into and through Leyburn, taking the minor road north over Bellerby Moor. For much of the way, we heard regular gunfire, the map showing "Danger Area" and "Rifle Range" on either side of the road. There were too many lorries and other traffic for our liking and, at the first opportunity, we left the road for a track across the moor that went in the direction we wanted to go and, over Preston Moor, we were once again on the Great English Walk. The route was generally easy to follow, despite the fog. Various land features and buildings showed evidence of widespread lead mining in former times.

Emerging at Grinton, we called in at The Bridge for coffee, which then morphed into soup for lunch. We then passed through Reeth and took a minor road in the general direction of Kirkby Stephen. We were planning to head for a forested area called The Stang but, before then we went into The CB Inn (it stands for Charles Bathurst), a lovely remote pub, serving food and providing accommodation. We met such kind people there. Mandy, behind the bar, made a spontaneous and generous donation to Ucare and took a photograph of us for The CB's Instagram page.

We got talking to Lee Kettlewell, who lives nearby. On discussing our intended overnight pitch, he thought we might find it inhospitable and offered us a pitch in the field next to his house, where we are now. We returned to The CB for a meal this evening. It was a lot busier than this afternoon; obviously a very popular place. On going to pay, Mandy took us aback by saying that the management had agreed that the cost of our meal would be a donation to Ucare as well. I was quite overwhelmed. Such kindness. I've promised to get in touch when I get home. Thank you Mandy, the CB management and Lee.

Not such a great distance covered today but a camping opportunity not to be turned down.

Great English Walk Day 24 - 11 April 2018

Masham to Leyburn
Walking 9.30am to 2.15pm
Distance walked today 10 miles
Distance walked so far 375 miles
Distance left 208 miles

I had quite a leisurely start to the day and enjoyed a full English breakfast. My tent was completely dry, having been draped across the bath and shower screen all night, and much lighter to carry.

Out of Masham, I crossed the River Ure and took the minor road up the right hand side. At times there was a flow of water a quarter to half inch deep on the road surface and this resulted in slightly wet feet quite quickly. The road was also flooded on one side or another in places so I had to make sure there was no traffic before I walked in the middle of the road.

Past Charlcot, the metalled road became a track and was severely flooded now and then but I managed to get around each time, although once I nearly slipped and fell in; it was only a foot deep!

Further on, I stopped to chat with a fellow on a horse who told me I could get a cup of tea in the next village. So, in Thornton Steward, I looked out for the Institute building, essentially a small village hall maintained by volunteers and supported by donations. What an excellent place. I went in and made myself tea and there was a loo at the back. A local volunteer came in to do some cleaning and we passed the time chatting for a few minutes before he disappeared to get busy. He told me walkers make good use of the facilities.

From there, I walked through the parkland of Danby Hall, a very imposing residence. 

I had lunch in Spennithorne church. 

In the churchyard was a golden cross that had been brought back from Sebastopol during the Crimean War. 

Am camped at Cracken House campsite, a really excellent place, and here I have been joined by Howard Kelly, a fellow Backpackers Club member, who has travelled up from Hampshire to walk with me until Barnard Castle, which we should reach on Friday/Saturday. Richard, the owner, very kindly ran me into Leyburn, a mile away, as I needed to get some food supplies. He very generously donated my and Howard's camping fees to Ucare. Howard and I have had a meal and a pint at the Golden Lion in Leyburn.