Started walking 6.55am
Distance walked 20 miles
Arrived 6.30pm
After a little light rain early on, it cleared to make good walking weather. I was up on Hadrian's Wall in 15 minutes. I saw no-one else for several hours. Views were good both to north and south. Just path Crag Lough, I took a footpath through a farm which, after a mile, met with the PW. This avoided a couple of steep hills on the Wall.
The path was clear to where the first forested area was met and then became a vehicle track, although towards the far side a grassy path was rather wet underfoot. Here I met a north to south PW walker who warned of very boggy sections ahead. The path across Haughton Common was also wet in parts and the next forested section was pretty dire and it was here that I had my first fall of the walk. On a muddy slope, both my feet went from under me. No harm done but I collected some mud.
At Horneystead farm, I visited their pit stop and bought a can of chilled Pepsi. Apparently, the owners walked the Appalachian Trail once and received many kindnesses. The pit stop is their way of doing something for PW walkers. Refreshments of all sorts are available, together with a loo and shower.
My feet had dried out but five minutes before arriving at Bellingham CCC site, I hit a boggy patch in a field. The site is excellent with all facilities. A good day.
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Friday, 9 June 2017
Thursday, 8 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 15 - Day in Greenhead
Another rest day, not for a needed rest but because of the forecast heavy rain for several hours.
I took the AD122 bus to Housesteads. Watched a short film, had a look at the exhibits and had a coffee. I didn't actually walk around the remains of the fort as it was still raining and I'd seen plenty of images inside. Caught a bus back in time for lunch.
Did a bit of clothes washing, took a shower, charged devices and then went across the Greenhead Hotel for a bite to eat - excellent steak & ale pie, chips and veg, washed down with a pint of Black Sheep. Will listen to the election news after 10pm but not for long as I have to be up early for more walking tomorrow.
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I took the AD122 bus to Housesteads. Watched a short film, had a look at the exhibits and had a coffee. I didn't actually walk around the remains of the fort as it was still raining and I'd seen plenty of images inside. Caught a bus back in time for lunch.
Did a bit of clothes washing, took a shower, charged devices and then went across the Greenhead Hotel for a bite to eat - excellent steak & ale pie, chips and veg, washed down with a pint of Black Sheep. Will listen to the election news after 10pm but not for long as I have to be up early for more walking tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, 7 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 14 - Alston to Greenhead
Started walking 8am
Distance walked 17 miles
Arrived 5.30pm
Rain during the night, forecast to clear by 8am so no need for a really early start.
The Way followed the River South Tyne for a while before moving away from it, shortly passing the site of Whitley Castle Roman fort. At Kirkhaugh, I took advantage of the South Tyne Trail alongside a narrow gauge single track railway. Presumably a train operates sometimes but not today. I walked this trail up to Slaggyford but had to divert as contractors were carrying out work to extend the track. I rejoined it a bit further along where it became a really nice level path. I picked up the PW again at Knarsdale Hall (shown on the map as Burnstones) where it follows the course of the Maiden Way, a Roman road.
Just before reaching the A689, I was overtaken by another PW walker, B&Bing with just a day pack. Apart from him, I didn't see anyone else all day.
After the A689, there was the odd waterlogged path and from just behind the cottage, Greenriggs, to the end of the access land at Black Hill, a couple of miles, the path, such as it was, was frequently under water and was quite hard going.
Upon reaching Greenhead, I went to s campsite I had used before and shown on the OS map at 656655 but it is no longer operating. I then went into the Greenhead Hotel in the village and paid £5.00 for camping adjacent to their hostel just over the road. Keith had already arrived but had lost the path near Wain Rigg and was a bit fed up.
A good weather day but windy.
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Distance walked 17 miles
Arrived 5.30pm
Rain during the night, forecast to clear by 8am so no need for a really early start.
The Way followed the River South Tyne for a while before moving away from it, shortly passing the site of Whitley Castle Roman fort. At Kirkhaugh, I took advantage of the South Tyne Trail alongside a narrow gauge single track railway. Presumably a train operates sometimes but not today. I walked this trail up to Slaggyford but had to divert as contractors were carrying out work to extend the track. I rejoined it a bit further along where it became a really nice level path. I picked up the PW again at Knarsdale Hall (shown on the map as Burnstones) where it follows the course of the Maiden Way, a Roman road.
Just before reaching the A689, I was overtaken by another PW walker, B&Bing with just a day pack. Apart from him, I didn't see anyone else all day.
After the A689, there was the odd waterlogged path and from just behind the cottage, Greenriggs, to the end of the access land at Black Hill, a couple of miles, the path, such as it was, was frequently under water and was quite hard going.
Upon reaching Greenhead, I went to s campsite I had used before and shown on the OS map at 656655 but it is no longer operating. I then went into the Greenhead Hotel in the village and paid £5.00 for camping adjacent to their hostel just over the road. Keith had already arrived but had lost the path near Wain Rigg and was a bit fed up.
A good weather day but windy.
Sent from my iPhone
Tuesday, 6 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 13 - Greg's Hut to Alston
Started walking 7.20am
Distance walked 10 miles
Arrived 12 noon
It was still raining when I woke before 5am. John and Mina were quickly up and gone by 5.30. I was able to be more leisurely. My clothes had virtually dried; just wet socks and shoes but the discomfort was momentary.
By the time I set off, the rain had virtually stopped and I rather enjoyed the four miles down to Garrigill. Since I last walked that way, the rough stony track had had a layer of small chippings laid - a great improvement. I stopped at the Post Office and shop where I bought a take out coffee. So unlike Costa, etc. It was instant coffee but it came in a pot on a tray with a mug, milk and sugar with the suggestion that I take it round the corner to consume in the church porch.
The pub, the George and Dragon remains closed and is up for sale.
The walk into Alston alongside the South Tyne was pleasant and undemanding. The YH was closed until 5pm but just as I was about to secrete my pack in some nearby trees, the warden arrived and let me put it inside. He'd probably be able to open up at 4.30.
Thus unburdened, I headed into town. Meths was bought at the garage on the A686 Haydon Bridge road yards from the centre of the town. I then bought some seam sealant as I think rain is getting in through the seams as I can't find any tear or hole.
At the little baker's shop I bought a steak and vegetable pie, still warm. It was delicious for lunch. A vegetable curry wrap did for part of my evening meal, cold, and I've rarely tasted anything so good.
At the deli, I bought my favourite thick Stockans Orkney oatcakes and some Cheshire and Lancashire cheeses - that's lunch sorted for the next couple of days.
The Co-op then provide milk and a couple of evening meals and a few other bits and bobs.
I bought a paper and made my way over to Blueberry's tearoom to see how long I could make a pot of tea last. In fact, I ordered a cream tea. I was about to go when Peg and John came in for lunch so I had another pot of tea whilst chatting to them. Their B&B is at Garrigill but they intend walking to Greenhead tomorrow. This is also my destination.
Returning to the YH, I met Keith who is also doing the PW but staying in YHs and B&Bs. I suspect he'll be faster than me tomorrow.
I used the sealant on the trousers and hope it works. Some laundry has been done so my tent and all clothing should be dry by the morning.
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 10 miles
Arrived 12 noon
It was still raining when I woke before 5am. John and Mina were quickly up and gone by 5.30. I was able to be more leisurely. My clothes had virtually dried; just wet socks and shoes but the discomfort was momentary.
By the time I set off, the rain had virtually stopped and I rather enjoyed the four miles down to Garrigill. Since I last walked that way, the rough stony track had had a layer of small chippings laid - a great improvement. I stopped at the Post Office and shop where I bought a take out coffee. So unlike Costa, etc. It was instant coffee but it came in a pot on a tray with a mug, milk and sugar with the suggestion that I take it round the corner to consume in the church porch.
The pub, the George and Dragon remains closed and is up for sale.
The walk into Alston alongside the South Tyne was pleasant and undemanding. The YH was closed until 5pm but just as I was about to secrete my pack in some nearby trees, the warden arrived and let me put it inside. He'd probably be able to open up at 4.30.
Thus unburdened, I headed into town. Meths was bought at the garage on the A686 Haydon Bridge road yards from the centre of the town. I then bought some seam sealant as I think rain is getting in through the seams as I can't find any tear or hole.
At the little baker's shop I bought a steak and vegetable pie, still warm. It was delicious for lunch. A vegetable curry wrap did for part of my evening meal, cold, and I've rarely tasted anything so good.
At the deli, I bought my favourite thick Stockans Orkney oatcakes and some Cheshire and Lancashire cheeses - that's lunch sorted for the next couple of days.
The Co-op then provide milk and a couple of evening meals and a few other bits and bobs.
I bought a paper and made my way over to Blueberry's tearoom to see how long I could make a pot of tea last. In fact, I ordered a cream tea. I was about to go when Peg and John came in for lunch so I had another pot of tea whilst chatting to them. Their B&B is at Garrigill but they intend walking to Greenhead tomorrow. This is also my destination.
Returning to the YH, I met Keith who is also doing the PW but staying in YHs and B&Bs. I suspect he'll be faster than me tomorrow.
I used the sealant on the trousers and hope it works. Some laundry has been done so my tent and all clothing should be dry by the morning.
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, 5 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 12 - Dufton to Greg's Hut
Started walking 6.20am
Distance walked 9 miles
Arrived 11.45am
Very light rain on waking at 5am. Breakfasted and packed away and was off early. The rain had stopped for the time being. A pleasant walk till the start of the access land but as I started climbing the rain started, the mist came down and the wind started howling across from the side. I was reminded that my overtrousers let in water even though I reproofed them before leaving home.
Knock Old Man was the first recognisable cairn. Visibility was not great so I took a grid ref and took a compass bearing. I did this more than once over the next couple of hours. I was passed by a couple who were at Jim's campsite last night.
In time, the tarmaced road to the radio station on Great Dun Fell was reached. There is a path marked on the map and I went a little way but it was going to be slow going. I cut across to the road, from the top of which it was easy to pick up the PW again.
On to Little Dun Fell. Some of the path was stone slabbed. Eventually, out of the mist appeared the large cross-shaped shelter on Cross Fell. I took a bearing for the track I wanted further ahead but lost the path. I just carried on in more or less the right direction downhill and picked up the track. Turning east, Greg's Hut loomed out of the mist. Already here were James and Mina, the couple who had passed me earlier. They are running/walking Lands End to John o'Groats. I got out of my wet clothes, under my quilt and made a cup of tea. Jim seems to have made an even earlier start than me and had booked in to Alston YH.
We are here for the night. There doesn't seem much point going out in to the foul weather again. Early tomorrow, I'll do the ten miles to Alston and hope the YH has a bed. The time has passed by very pleasantly. Both James and Mina have made unsuccessful attempts to light the stove. I am now very warm under my quilt, having eaten. Unfortunately, the weather forecast isn't good for tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 9 miles
Arrived 11.45am
Very light rain on waking at 5am. Breakfasted and packed away and was off early. The rain had stopped for the time being. A pleasant walk till the start of the access land but as I started climbing the rain started, the mist came down and the wind started howling across from the side. I was reminded that my overtrousers let in water even though I reproofed them before leaving home.
Knock Old Man was the first recognisable cairn. Visibility was not great so I took a grid ref and took a compass bearing. I did this more than once over the next couple of hours. I was passed by a couple who were at Jim's campsite last night.
In time, the tarmaced road to the radio station on Great Dun Fell was reached. There is a path marked on the map and I went a little way but it was going to be slow going. I cut across to the road, from the top of which it was easy to pick up the PW again.
On to Little Dun Fell. Some of the path was stone slabbed. Eventually, out of the mist appeared the large cross-shaped shelter on Cross Fell. I took a bearing for the track I wanted further ahead but lost the path. I just carried on in more or less the right direction downhill and picked up the track. Turning east, Greg's Hut loomed out of the mist. Already here were James and Mina, the couple who had passed me earlier. They are running/walking Lands End to John o'Groats. I got out of my wet clothes, under my quilt and made a cup of tea. Jim seems to have made an even earlier start than me and had booked in to Alston YH.
We are here for the night. There doesn't seem much point going out in to the foul weather again. Early tomorrow, I'll do the ten miles to Alston and hope the YH has a bed. The time has passed by very pleasantly. Both James and Mina have made unsuccessful attempts to light the stove. I am now very warm under my quilt, having eaten. Unfortunately, the weather forecast isn't good for tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sunday, 4 June 2017
Pennine Way 11 - Middleton in Teesdale to Dufton
Started walking 7am
Distance walked 21 miles
Arrived 6.30pm
A fine start to the day. The PW followed the south bank of the Tees for a few miles, passing first Low Force and then High Force 1.5 miles further on. No-one else was about. Jim had left half an hour before me.
At Widdy Bank Farm, I could see rain heading my way so I quickly donned waterproofs. It was, in fact, a very heavy hail storm. I crouched in the lee of a stone wall for five minutes until the worst was over.
Continuing to follow the Tees towards Falcon Clints, there were some tricky rock downfalls to negotiate. Rounding a corner I espied the rushing waters of Cauldron Snout and took a couple of photos. I could see from the map that I had to get to the top of the torrent to a bridge. This involved a rather hairy clamber up a rock face which I didn't particularly enjoy but there was no alternative.
There followed a long metalled farm road leading to a grassy path which eventually led to the amazing sight of High Cup Nick where I stopped for a breather. I'd seen this before and many photos but it still took my breath away. I took a short break here.
The descent to Dufton was about three miles and I am camped at Brow Top Farm. I found Jim at the main site in the village for a chat about our day. Today has been a day of wide open spaces.
Tomorrow's forecast is for heavy rain much of the day. Cross Fell is likely to be a challenge and it is 19.5 miles to Alston. I may cut the day short somewhere.
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 21 miles
Arrived 6.30pm
A fine start to the day. The PW followed the south bank of the Tees for a few miles, passing first Low Force and then High Force 1.5 miles further on. No-one else was about. Jim had left half an hour before me.
At Widdy Bank Farm, I could see rain heading my way so I quickly donned waterproofs. It was, in fact, a very heavy hail storm. I crouched in the lee of a stone wall for five minutes until the worst was over.
Continuing to follow the Tees towards Falcon Clints, there were some tricky rock downfalls to negotiate. Rounding a corner I espied the rushing waters of Cauldron Snout and took a couple of photos. I could see from the map that I had to get to the top of the torrent to a bridge. This involved a rather hairy clamber up a rock face which I didn't particularly enjoy but there was no alternative.
There followed a long metalled farm road leading to a grassy path which eventually led to the amazing sight of High Cup Nick where I stopped for a breather. I'd seen this before and many photos but it still took my breath away. I took a short break here.
The descent to Dufton was about three miles and I am camped at Brow Top Farm. I found Jim at the main site in the village for a chat about our day. Today has been a day of wide open spaces.
Tomorrow's forecast is for heavy rain much of the day. Cross Fell is likely to be a challenge and it is 19.5 miles to Alston. I may cut the day short somewhere.
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, 3 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 10 - Between Keld and Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale
Started walking 7am
Distance walked 19 miles
Arrived 6.15pm
Woke to a clear morning; the forecast was good. It was an easy mile and a half to Tan Hill. I took a chance that the path across Sleightholme Moor wouldn't be too boggy. It has a reputation. It started off very well and was generally OK. Only in a couple of stretches did the path disappear and become wet. It was a lovely moorland walk of three miles or so. Plenty of curlew and lapwings wheeling overhead, June being in the middle of the ground nesting season.
I stopped for lunch a short distance after the A66 underpass. Magnificent views. I made really good time. Descending to Blackton Reservoir, I went by Hannah's Meadow, named after Hannah Hauxwell of nearby Lower Birk Hatt Farm, who featured in a TV documentary about her life in the 1980s. She lived without running water and electricity.
I then followed field paths before dropping down to Grassholme Reservoir. By the stile where path crossed the B road south of Wythes Hill was a coolbox contains chilled bottles of water for walkers so I helped myself. It was tap water but so welcome. A little further on was a house with a tuck shop in a wooden stand by the gate (I bought some flapjack) and use of a water tap.
Some undulating field paths and then a long gradual descent led me to Daleview Caravan Park which has a small area set aside for campers. It's a bit midgy and backs on to a road but welcome nevertheless. Here I met Jim from Lowestoft, also walking the PW. He retired to his tent early to listen to football on his radio but promptly went to sleep - I may need earplugs!
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 19 miles
Arrived 6.15pm
Woke to a clear morning; the forecast was good. It was an easy mile and a half to Tan Hill. I took a chance that the path across Sleightholme Moor wouldn't be too boggy. It has a reputation. It started off very well and was generally OK. Only in a couple of stretches did the path disappear and become wet. It was a lovely moorland walk of three miles or so. Plenty of curlew and lapwings wheeling overhead, June being in the middle of the ground nesting season.
I stopped for lunch a short distance after the A66 underpass. Magnificent views. I made really good time. Descending to Blackton Reservoir, I went by Hannah's Meadow, named after Hannah Hauxwell of nearby Lower Birk Hatt Farm, who featured in a TV documentary about her life in the 1980s. She lived without running water and electricity.
I then followed field paths before dropping down to Grassholme Reservoir. By the stile where path crossed the B road south of Wythes Hill was a coolbox contains chilled bottles of water for walkers so I helped myself. It was tap water but so welcome. A little further on was a house with a tuck shop in a wooden stand by the gate (I bought some flapjack) and use of a water tap.
Some undulating field paths and then a long gradual descent led me to Daleview Caravan Park which has a small area set aside for campers. It's a bit midgy and backs on to a road but welcome nevertheless. Here I met Jim from Lowestoft, also walking the PW. He retired to his tent early to listen to football on his radio but promptly went to sleep - I may need earplugs!
Sent from my iPhone
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