Pennine Way Day 13 - Greg's Hut to Alston

Started walking 7.20am
Distance walked 10 miles
Arrived 12 noon

It was still raining when I woke before 5am. John and Mina were quickly up and gone by 5.30. I was able to be more leisurely. My clothes had virtually dried; just wet socks and shoes but the discomfort was momentary.

By the time I set off, the rain had virtually stopped and I rather enjoyed the four miles down to Garrigill. Since I last walked that way, the rough stony track had had a layer of small chippings laid - a great improvement. I stopped at the Post Office and shop where I bought a take out coffee. So unlike Costa, etc. It was instant coffee but it came in a pot on a tray with a mug, milk and sugar with the suggestion that I take it round the corner to consume in the church porch.

The pub, the George and Dragon remains closed and is up for sale.

The walk into Alston alongside the South Tyne was pleasant and undemanding. The YH was closed until 5pm but just as I was about to secrete my pack in some nearby trees, the warden arrived and let me put it inside. He'd probably be able to open up at 4.30.

Thus unburdened, I headed into town. Meths was bought at the garage on the A686 Haydon Bridge road yards from the centre of the town. I then bought some seam sealant as I think rain is getting in through the seams as I can't find any tear or hole.

At the little baker's shop I bought a steak and vegetable pie, still warm. It was delicious for lunch. A vegetable curry wrap did for part of my evening meal, cold, and I've rarely tasted anything so good.

At the deli, I bought my favourite thick Stockans Orkney oatcakes and some Cheshire and Lancashire cheeses - that's lunch sorted for the next couple of days.

The Co-op then provide milk and a couple of evening meals and a few other bits and bobs.

I bought a paper and made my way over to Blueberry's tearoom to see how long I could make a pot of tea last. In fact, I ordered a cream tea. I was about to go when Peg and John came in for lunch so I had another pot of tea whilst chatting to them. Their B&B is at Garrigill but they intend walking to Greenhead tomorrow. This is also my destination.

Returning to the YH, I met Keith who is also doing the PW but staying in YHs and B&Bs. I suspect he'll be faster than me tomorrow.

I used the sealant on the trousers and hope it works. Some laundry has been done so my tent and all clothing should be dry by the morning.

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Pennine Way Day 12 - Dufton to Greg's Hut

Started walking 6.20am
Distance walked 9 miles
Arrived 11.45am

Very light rain on waking at 5am. Breakfasted and packed away and was off early. The rain had stopped for the time being. A pleasant walk till the start of the access land but as I started climbing the rain started, the mist came down and the wind started howling across from the side. I was reminded that my overtrousers let in water even though I reproofed them before leaving home.

Knock Old Man was the first recognisable cairn. Visibility was not great so I took a grid ref and took a compass bearing. I did this more than once over the next couple of hours. I was passed by a couple who were at Jim's campsite last night.

In time, the tarmaced road to the radio station on Great Dun Fell was reached. There is a path marked on the map and I went a little way but it was going to be slow going. I cut across to the road, from the top of which it was easy to pick up the PW again.

On to Little Dun Fell. Some of the path was stone slabbed. Eventually, out of the mist appeared the large cross-shaped shelter on Cross Fell. I took a bearing for the track I wanted further ahead but lost the path. I just carried on in more or less the right direction downhill and picked up the track. Turning east, Greg's Hut loomed out of the mist. Already here were James and Mina, the couple who had passed me earlier. They are running/walking Lands End to John o'Groats. I got out of my wet clothes, under my quilt and made a cup of tea. Jim seems to have made an even earlier start than me and had booked in to Alston YH.

We are here for the night. There doesn't seem much point going out in to the foul weather again. Early tomorrow, I'll do the ten miles to Alston and hope the YH has a bed. The time has passed by very pleasantly. Both James and Mina have made unsuccessful attempts to light the stove. I am now very warm under my quilt, having eaten. Unfortunately, the weather forecast isn't good for tomorrow.

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Pennine Way 11 - Middleton in Teesdale to Dufton

Started walking 7am
Distance walked 21 miles
Arrived 6.30pm

A fine start to the day. The PW followed the south bank of the Tees for a few miles, passing first Low Force and then High Force 1.5 miles further on. No-one else was about. Jim had left half an hour before me.

At Widdy Bank Farm, I could see rain heading my way so I quickly donned waterproofs. It was, in fact, a very heavy hail storm. I crouched in the lee of a stone wall for five minutes until the worst was over.

Continuing to follow the Tees towards Falcon Clints, there were some tricky rock downfalls to negotiate. Rounding a corner I espied the rushing waters of Cauldron Snout and took a couple of photos. I could see from the map that I had to get to the top of the torrent to a bridge. This involved a rather hairy clamber up a rock face which I didn't particularly enjoy but there was no alternative.

There followed a long metalled farm road leading to a grassy path which eventually led to the amazing sight of High Cup Nick where I stopped for a breather. I'd seen this before and many photos but it still took my breath away. I took a short break here.

The descent to Dufton was about three miles and I am camped at Brow Top Farm. I found Jim at the main site in the village for a chat about our day. Today has been a day of wide open spaces.

Tomorrow's forecast is for heavy rain much of the day. Cross Fell is likely to be a challenge and it is 19.5 miles to Alston. I may cut the day short somewhere.

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Pennine Way Day 10 - Between Keld and Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale

Started walking 7am
Distance walked 19 miles
Arrived 6.15pm

Woke to a clear morning; the forecast was good. It was an easy mile and a half to Tan Hill. I took a chance that the path across Sleightholme Moor wouldn't be too boggy. It has a reputation. It started off very well and was generally OK. Only in a couple of stretches did the path disappear and become wet. It was a lovely moorland walk of three miles or so. Plenty of curlew and lapwings wheeling overhead, June being in the middle of the ground nesting season.

I stopped for lunch a short distance after the A66 underpass. Magnificent views. I made really good time. Descending to Blackton Reservoir, I went by Hannah's Meadow, named after Hannah Hauxwell of nearby Lower Birk Hatt Farm, who featured in a TV documentary about her life in the 1980s. She lived without running water and electricity.

I then followed field paths before dropping down to Grassholme Reservoir. By the stile where path crossed the B road south of Wythes Hill was a coolbox contains chilled bottles of water for walkers so I helped myself. It was tap water but so welcome. A little further on was a house with a tuck shop in a wooden stand by the gate (I bought some flapjack) and use of a water tap.

Some undulating field paths and then a long gradual descent led me to Daleview Caravan Park which has a small area set aside for campers. It's a bit midgy and backs on to a road but welcome nevertheless. Here I met Jim from Lowestoft, also walking the PW. He retired to his tent early to listen to football on his radio but promptly went to sleep - I may need earplugs!

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Pennine Way Day 9 - Hawes to between Keld and Tan Hill

Started walking 7.30am
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 5.15pm

Rain was forecast so I set off in waterproofs. It had rained in the night. Out of Hawes, a local recommended an alternative path to Hardraw. As I toiled uphill out of Hardraw, it started to rain and continued for some time but it was never heavy. This was the long slow ascent towards Great Shunner Fell, at 700m, the highest point on the Pennine Way. It was swathed in most so I didn't linger. On the way down the other side, I encountered about a dozen American walkers apparently walking the Coast to Coast. What they were doing on the Pennine Way heading south when the C2C heads east from Keld, some six miles away wasn't clear but they didn't seem concerned.

Descending to Thwaite, the PW climbed up quite steeply. I obviously took a wrong path past Kisdon because after about half a mile, it petered out at a wall. I was hailed by two walkers some way up the hillside. They had made the same mistake. I clambered up and managed to get over a wall on to the right path.

It was a clear path towards Keld, but quite stony and difficult at times. I didn't go into the village but headed over the river to gain the higher ground again. A level path skirted Black Moor towards Tan Hill. I was aiming for a particular wild camp but I could see that there was a camper van parked exactly where I wanted to be so I stopped short and pitched on a wide flat area. I have just about enough water.

A good day, dry since late morning and sunny at times. In my new shoes, my feet are very happy.

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Pennine Way Day 8 - Rest day in Hawes

I decided on a day off to let my feet recover. Mike went on his way. There's no holding him back. Thanks very much Mike for your company the last week.

I went into Hawes and bought milk and orange juice. Also some blister patches and various other blister remedies. Frank turned up mid morning for a cup of tea and brought with him today's Times which I'd meant to buy but had forgotten. Amazing telepathy on his part.

In the afternoon I went in to the Wensleydale Creamery shop and sampled most of their cheeses, buying a piece of the Wensleydale Special Reserve.

I met Frank for a meal at the fish and chip café. He had decided to head back home as his blisters were so painful but with the intention of resuming the PW later in the year. I enjoyed your company very much, Frank.

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Pennine Way Day 7 - Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes

Started walking 7.15am
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 4pm

A lovely clear morning, such a change from yesterday. Three of us set off - me, Mike and Frank. Frank was suffering badly from blisters and said he would be slow but was keen to have company for the day. It was a long gradual pull up to the higher ground. Once up, the walking was relatively level. Frank was clearly suffering so I told Mike to go on ahead, so he did like a spring released. I was happy to plod along with Frank and he was good company.

At Cam End, the Dales Way and the PW met - I was here two years ago on my North of England Way coast to coast walk.

Whilst stopped for lunch enjoying the fine view over Cam Houses, Peg and John from Iowa came along. Frank had gone on, preferring to keep moving. I caught up with him later and we walked together down into Gayle. I found here the accommodation for me and Mike (Frank was to camp at Bainbridge Ings campsite). My new shoes had been delivered as well as my resupply parcel.

We three met for a meal at the Fountain Hotel - I had liver, bacon and onions which was very good.

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