Started walking 7.30am
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 5.15pm
Rain was forecast so I set off in waterproofs. It had rained in the night. Out of Hawes, a local recommended an alternative path to Hardraw. As I toiled uphill out of Hardraw, it started to rain and continued for some time but it was never heavy. This was the long slow ascent towards Great Shunner Fell, at 700m, the highest point on the Pennine Way. It was swathed in most so I didn't linger. On the way down the other side, I encountered about a dozen American walkers apparently walking the Coast to Coast. What they were doing on the Pennine Way heading south when the C2C heads east from Keld, some six miles away wasn't clear but they didn't seem concerned.
Descending to Thwaite, the PW climbed up quite steeply. I obviously took a wrong path past Kisdon because after about half a mile, it petered out at a wall. I was hailed by two walkers some way up the hillside. They had made the same mistake. I clambered up and managed to get over a wall on to the right path.
It was a clear path towards Keld, but quite stony and difficult at times. I didn't go into the village but headed over the river to gain the higher ground again. A level path skirted Black Moor towards Tan Hill. I was aiming for a particular wild camp but I could see that there was a camper van parked exactly where I wanted to be so I stopped short and pitched on a wide flat area. I have just about enough water.
A good day, dry since late morning and sunny at times. In my new shoes, my feet are very happy.
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, 2 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 8 - Rest day in Hawes
I decided on a day off to let my feet recover. Mike went on his way. There's no holding him back. Thanks very much Mike for your company the last week.
I went into Hawes and bought milk and orange juice. Also some blister patches and various other blister remedies. Frank turned up mid morning for a cup of tea and brought with him today's Times which I'd meant to buy but had forgotten. Amazing telepathy on his part.
In the afternoon I went in to the Wensleydale Creamery shop and sampled most of their cheeses, buying a piece of the Wensleydale Special Reserve.
I met Frank for a meal at the fish and chip café. He had decided to head back home as his blisters were so painful but with the intention of resuming the PW later in the year. I enjoyed your company very much, Frank.
Sent from my iPhone
I went into Hawes and bought milk and orange juice. Also some blister patches and various other blister remedies. Frank turned up mid morning for a cup of tea and brought with him today's Times which I'd meant to buy but had forgotten. Amazing telepathy on his part.
In the afternoon I went in to the Wensleydale Creamery shop and sampled most of their cheeses, buying a piece of the Wensleydale Special Reserve.
I met Frank for a meal at the fish and chip café. He had decided to head back home as his blisters were so painful but with the intention of resuming the PW later in the year. I enjoyed your company very much, Frank.
Sent from my iPhone
Thursday, 1 June 2017
Pennine Way Day 7 - Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes
Started walking 7.15am
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 4pm
A lovely clear morning, such a change from yesterday. Three of us set off - me, Mike and Frank. Frank was suffering badly from blisters and said he would be slow but was keen to have company for the day. It was a long gradual pull up to the higher ground. Once up, the walking was relatively level. Frank was clearly suffering so I told Mike to go on ahead, so he did like a spring released. I was happy to plod along with Frank and he was good company.
At Cam End, the Dales Way and the PW met - I was here two years ago on my North of England Way coast to coast walk.
Whilst stopped for lunch enjoying the fine view over Cam Houses, Peg and John from Iowa came along. Frank had gone on, preferring to keep moving. I caught up with him later and we walked together down into Gayle. I found here the accommodation for me and Mike (Frank was to camp at Bainbridge Ings campsite). My new shoes had been delivered as well as my resupply parcel.
We three met for a meal at the Fountain Hotel - I had liver, bacon and onions which was very good.
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 4pm
A lovely clear morning, such a change from yesterday. Three of us set off - me, Mike and Frank. Frank was suffering badly from blisters and said he would be slow but was keen to have company for the day. It was a long gradual pull up to the higher ground. Once up, the walking was relatively level. Frank was clearly suffering so I told Mike to go on ahead, so he did like a spring released. I was happy to plod along with Frank and he was good company.
At Cam End, the Dales Way and the PW met - I was here two years ago on my North of England Way coast to coast walk.
Whilst stopped for lunch enjoying the fine view over Cam Houses, Peg and John from Iowa came along. Frank had gone on, preferring to keep moving. I caught up with him later and we walked together down into Gayle. I found here the accommodation for me and Mike (Frank was to camp at Bainbridge Ings campsite). My new shoes had been delivered as well as my resupply parcel.
We three met for a meal at the Fountain Hotel - I had liver, bacon and onions which was very good.
Sent from my iPhone
Tuesday, 30 May 2017
Pennine Way Day 6 - Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale
Started walking 10.20am
Distance walked 13 miles
Arrived 5.45pm
My feet were bad in the night. Going out to the YH loo in the early hours, I couldn't put my left foot flat to the floor because of blister discomfort.
At breakfast, I told Mike to go on without me and I would make my own way at my own speed. I went online and ordered a pair of Inov8 trail runners which I hope will be OK. They are to be delivered to Hawes. The Merrell Moab Ventilators I am wearing have not proved successful. I have always been impressed with Inov8s.
I set off late but the weather was reasonable for the laborious climb up the side of Malham Cove. Having dosed myself up with Neurofen, I was very surprised at how OK my feet were although I had taken care with the dressings.
I took my time but kept up a reasonable pace. The path was clear all day and I met no-one after Malham Tarn.
Mist swept across the path and rain started as I began the descent from Fountains Fell but I made good progress. I missed out the ascent of Pen-y-Ghent and took the path down to Horton where, as I opened the gate, I was hit by an absolute hooly of a wind. This continued for quite a while as I made my way down for the first mile or so but the wind then gradually dropped and the rain stopped. Not a bad day, considering. Am camped at Holme Farm campsite.
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 13 miles
Arrived 5.45pm
My feet were bad in the night. Going out to the YH loo in the early hours, I couldn't put my left foot flat to the floor because of blister discomfort.
At breakfast, I told Mike to go on without me and I would make my own way at my own speed. I went online and ordered a pair of Inov8 trail runners which I hope will be OK. They are to be delivered to Hawes. The Merrell Moab Ventilators I am wearing have not proved successful. I have always been impressed with Inov8s.
I set off late but the weather was reasonable for the laborious climb up the side of Malham Cove. Having dosed myself up with Neurofen, I was very surprised at how OK my feet were although I had taken care with the dressings.
I took my time but kept up a reasonable pace. The path was clear all day and I met no-one after Malham Tarn.
Mist swept across the path and rain started as I began the descent from Fountains Fell but I made good progress. I missed out the ascent of Pen-y-Ghent and took the path down to Horton where, as I opened the gate, I was hit by an absolute hooly of a wind. This continued for quite a while as I made my way down for the first mile or so but the wind then gradually dropped and the rain stopped. Not a bad day, considering. Am camped at Holme Farm campsite.
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, 29 May 2017
Pennine Way Day 5 - Ickornshaw to Malham
Started walking 7am
Walked 18 miles
Arrived 5pm
Off early; the rain from overnight had stopped. We passed through Lothersdale, noting that the Hare and Hounds was shut, although it was only 8.30. Coffee would have been nice.
We climbed up to cross Carleton and Elslack Moors, both easy walking. Our snack stop was in Thornton-in-Craven but it had nothing else to offer. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal was joined for a short stretch at East Marton, but we pressed on to Gargrave. In the absence of an open cafe, we had a bite to eat at The Old Swan.
We then had six miles to cover to reach Malham. The forecast the day before yesterday had been for heavy rain today so we had booked in to Malham YH. The rain didn't materialise but we have proper beds for a change. Here was Frank who I met last week on Sheffield station.
Painkillers have been helpful today for the blisters.
Walked 18 miles
Arrived 5pm
Off early; the rain from overnight had stopped. We passed through Lothersdale, noting that the Hare and Hounds was shut, although it was only 8.30. Coffee would have been nice.
We climbed up to cross Carleton and Elslack Moors, both easy walking. Our snack stop was in Thornton-in-Craven but it had nothing else to offer. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal was joined for a short stretch at East Marton, but we pressed on to Gargrave. In the absence of an open cafe, we had a bite to eat at The Old Swan.
 |
| Double arched bridge at East Marton |
Painkillers have been helpful today for the blisters.
Sunday, 28 May 2017
Pennine Way Day 4 - Callis Bridge to Ickornshaw
Started walking 7.15am
Walked 15 miles
Arrived 5.30pm
Woke to a light rain at 5am but it had cleared by the time we left. We were able to take a short cut back to the PW. The somewhat overgrown narrow walled path dropped down to cross Colden Water over a "clapper" bridge.
A steep climb brought us to the amazing May's Shop at Highgate Farm where we bought a few essential foody bits and bobs. The Way then went over a clear moorland path to Gorple Lower Reservoir, past two other reservoirs and then past the ruin of Top Withins where had a lunch break. Being Sunday, there were a fair number of folk walking up from Haworth.
There was a steep climb up from Ponden Reservoir to more moorland. The path across Ickornshaw Moor was stone slabbed - what a change from my last visit in 1975 when the weather was foul and my companion and I floundered across - it was plain awful.
We are camped at Squirrel Wood Camping - in a large garden, excellent facilities and the company of the larger than life owner, Ady.
Walked 15 miles
Arrived 5.30pm
Woke to a light rain at 5am but it had cleared by the time we left. We were able to take a short cut back to the PW. The somewhat overgrown narrow walled path dropped down to cross Colden Water over a "clapper" bridge.
 |
| Clapper bridge |
There was a steep climb up from Ponden Reservoir to more moorland. The path across Ickornshaw Moor was stone slabbed - what a change from my last visit in 1975 when the weather was foul and my companion and I floundered across - it was plain awful.
 |
| Ickornshaw Moor |
We are camped at Squirrel Wood Camping - in a large garden, excellent facilities and the company of the larger than life owner, Ady.
Saturday, 27 May 2017
Pennine Way Day 3 - Standedge to Callis Bridge
Started walking 7am
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 6pm
Stirring at our now usual 5am, all was quiet but there was a thick fog, cool but still quite mild.
We took the path a little way up the road by the Great Western Inn, although I was reminded later that there is an unofficial path that avoids a road walk just opposite the Carriage House.
After half a mile or so, we rejoined the Pennine Way, also for a while the Oldham Way as well, as they follow the same route. We were on a clear high level path, passing over Millstone Edge with lovely clear views westwards, small villages and the odd reservoir. Crossing the A640 Huddersfield Road, the views continued until we dropped down to cross over the M62 bridge.
Climbing again, we reached the Aiggin Stone, an old guide post for travellers 600 years old - the plaque alongside it was somewhat ambiguous.
We stopped for refreshment at the White House. Here, we met Darren from Cheshire, also walking a section of the PW. He had also been camping at our previous two nights locations.
We then had a long stretch of level walking alongside reservoirs, being diverted around Warland Reservoir, which had been drained and works were going on. Stoodley Pike monument came into view in the distance. Along the way, we met Peg and John from Iowa, B&B-ing the PW. We shall doubtless see more of them. We went up the 39 unlit steps of Stoodley Pike. Views all round from the viewing balcony were superb but we needed to move on for the long descent to the Calder Valley just outside Hebden Bridge. The ascent the other side was steep, winding and long and we were glad to reach our planned camp at Badger Fields Farm. Rain is coming on and it is quite blustery. I have made good use of the extra guys I made for the tent!
Sent from my iPhone
Distance walked 15 miles
Arrived 6pm
Stirring at our now usual 5am, all was quiet but there was a thick fog, cool but still quite mild.
We took the path a little way up the road by the Great Western Inn, although I was reminded later that there is an unofficial path that avoids a road walk just opposite the Carriage House.
 |
| Cotton grass |
After half a mile or so, we rejoined the Pennine Way, also for a while the Oldham Way as well, as they follow the same route. We were on a clear high level path, passing over Millstone Edge with lovely clear views westwards, small villages and the odd reservoir. Crossing the A640 Huddersfield Road, the views continued until we dropped down to cross over the M62 bridge.
Climbing again, we reached the Aiggin Stone, an old guide post for travellers 600 years old - the plaque alongside it was somewhat ambiguous.
We stopped for refreshment at the White House. Here, we met Darren from Cheshire, also walking a section of the PW. He had also been camping at our previous two nights locations.
We then had a long stretch of level walking alongside reservoirs, being diverted around Warland Reservoir, which had been drained and works were going on. Stoodley Pike monument came into view in the distance. Along the way, we met Peg and John from Iowa, B&B-ing the PW. We shall doubtless see more of them. We went up the 39 unlit steps of Stoodley Pike. Views all round from the viewing balcony were superb but we needed to move on for the long descent to the Calder Valley just outside Hebden Bridge. The ascent the other side was steep, winding and long and we were glad to reach our planned camp at Badger Fields Farm. Rain is coming on and it is quite blustery. I have made good use of the extra guys I made for the tent!
Sent from my iPhone
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