The Harz Mountains

The book Walking in the Harz Mountains arrived the day before I was due to travel to Hahnenklee in the Harz (with my wife on a rail holiday with Treyn) travelling from home virtually all the way from home by rail, which was a first. Excursions during the week included journeys on narrow gauge railways. The first was from Wernigerode, a town full of timber-framed buildings, on the Harzquerbahn (the Trans-Harz Railway) to the top of Brocken Mountain (3,743ft/1,141m), the highest peak in the Harz, a trip of some one and a half hours. Much fun was had before the train left exploring the station area and admiring the various old steam engines.

The weather was very mild in the town but as the train wended its way gradually around the perimeter of the mountain it started to snow until, on reaching the summit, there were near blizzard conditions and it was icy and bitterly cold. The line, first opened in 1898, was used by the military during the Cold war, but re-opened to the public in 1991. Until then, the Brocken was used as a military communications post as this part of Germany was part of the GDR.

The other excursion was from Quedlinburg (a town with UNESCO World Heritage status) on the Seketalbahn passing through dense forests and great scenery.

A free day presented the opportunity of a hike (which is largely what this blog is all about). I caught a bus from Hahnenklee to Goslar, about ten miles away. I was then able to walk back to Hahnenklee. The route climbed out of Goslar and passed by the Rammelsberg Mine, dating back to the tenth century when silver was discovered here. It is now a regional mining museum and attracts many visitors. Unfortunately, time didn't permit a visit here so I pressed on. The path then climbed up the Herzberg where I joined the Herzberger Way, a well waymarked route through coniferous forest. I stopped for lunch at a mountain hut.

 Shortly after, snow started to fall and, in no time at all, I was enveloped by a blizzard and walking through snow. I followed a route known as the Schalkeweg, below the summit of the Schalke, where I stopped in another mountain hut for a while. Here, there was a viewing tower where, according to the book, I could "enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding hills". Quite, but not today. I didn't bother to go up. Descending from here, I called in at the Auerhahn (Capercaillie in English), a welcoming pub on the road where I enjoyed a glass of excellent German beer and was able to warm up and dry out a bit before returning to Hahnenklee.

This is a part of Germany that requires a return visit.

Cicerone book sale

A short time ago I received an email from Cicerone books. They were having a sale of old stock. For £3.00 each including postage (instead of the full price of £8.99-£12.95) I was able to obtain:

• The Greater Ridgeway - From Lyme Regis to Hunstanton
• Walking the River Rhine Trail
• Germany's Romantic Road
• Walking in the Harz Mountains

At that price, they were an absolute steal with plenty to occupy me in the future.

NeoAir Xlite

I always seem to suffer from chilled feet when winter backpacking. Maybe it's just the way I am or maybe it's what I lie on at night or maybe a mix of the two. What I've used for years is a three quarter length Thermarest Ultralight with my legs from the knees below overhanging. To the Thermarest I attach a length of cell foam mat which is attached by a strip of Velcro. This is fine for much of the year and the two, when I'm on the move, are rolled (the Thermarest deflated) inside my frameless backpack.

However, I decided that enough was enough. When it's really cold outside, cold feet are a problem, causing sleepless nights and discomfort. I decided that the NeoAir Xlite was the possible solution and the main reason for going for it was its light weight and small packed size. A full length one was essential in order to keep my feet off the cold ground. The lengths for men are Small (119cm), Regular (183cm) and Large (196cm). My length from top to toe is 167cm (5ft 6ins in old money) so none of these was quite right. However, they do a women's one in a single size of 168cm. This has a slightly higher heat rating (3.9 compared to 3.2). Apparently, women need a little more warmth than men. NeoAir refer to this as the R-Value. I decided that I could do with this higher rating as well and the size was spot on. The women's also has an almost indistinguishable pattern on the upper surface. All NeoAirs come in one colour - yellow.

It arrived quickly and I had to try it out, even if it was in the back garden at home. As it happened, there were several inches of snow. Perfect. I cleared some snow away, just enough for my body outline and set up the tarp. Using a tent would have meant more snow clearing. It didn't snow any more during the night but the temperature dropped to -7C. My feet started reasonably warm, I wore thick, warm socks and was in a down sleeping bag rated to -5C. Result! I spent a very comfortable night and overslept.

Bought online from Gaynor Sports of Ambleside for £84.99 in their sale. Very good value.

Sealskinz socks

Like most people, I don't really like hiking with wet feet. Preferring to walk in trail shoes, I think that those with a waterproof lining are a waste of money because water will easily go over the tops and wet feet will quickly result. Some years ago, I discovered Sealskinz waterproof, breathable socks. They weren't cheap but if they worked then they sounded good. I found them comfortable to wear and found that my feet didn't sweat. They seemed ideal and for a while they kept my feet dry. But not for long. I returned them to Sealskinz for replacement and they didn't quibble. The replacements only lasted a few outings before being returned. In all, I've had four pairs of them now although only paid for the first pair. Last weekend, although I knew they were suspect, I wore them but they were very soon letting in wet. Unlike ordinary socks which will let wet out and dry eventually, Sealskinz tend to keep it in. So, my love hate relationship with them is now at an end. I binned them when I got home and won't bother returning them. Surely I can't be the only dissatisfied customer and to have four out of four pairs fail with really only quite light use must mean that there is something wrong with the product. I really would like to like them and if Sealskinz would like to send me another pair specifically to test and review on this blog then I will do it but perhaps they won't want to risk a bad review.

Water most certainly didn't go over the top of the socks. Each pair that I've had have been well cared for and washed by hand in warm water.

An alternative waterproof sock (although very different in design and construction) is the Trekmates Amphibian, now discontinued. I have a couple of pairs of these. They are surprisingly comfortable and do keep my feet dry. However, even with these, I am tending to accept wet feet during the day by wearing ordinary socks and then wearing the Amphibians in the evenings so that I can wear dry socks but in wet shoes. But they won't last forever and, apart from Sealskinz, there doesn't seem to be anything else on the market.

I have a pair of Sealskinz gloves as well; one of these lets water in. A Sealskinz Winter Hat which I have is excellent.

Frogg Toggs review

Having heard about these waterproofs, Frogg Toggs Ultra- Lite Rain Suit, I was interested in giving them a try. I bought them with my own money, sourcing them on line from a supplier in the USA. Here was a full set of breathable waterproofs weighing just nine ounces and costing twenty dollars! Mind you, the cost of delivery almost doubled this but I was sufficiently interested. The colour is a light to mid green. According to the website, the suit is "constructed from an ultralight waterproof, breathable, non-woven polypropylene construction. The patented bi-laminate technology with "welded" waterproof seams and unmatched sweat-free breathability is a great value in affordable rain wear." They certainly were light and fitted reasonably well. There are no frills. Thus no pockets in the jacket or trousers. The jacket cuffs are elasticated but OK. The trouser waist is also elasticated and I had no trouble putting them on over trail shoes. The hood is not elasticated but had a draw cord either side. It wasn't a bad fit and turned with my head. Obviously, it's not wired at all and it is best worn with some sort of hat underneath. Basically, the suit kept me dry and I didn't suffer from condensation inside so I suppose it is breathable.

So, it's quite good but what about the bad points? Well, the suit isn't going to last as long as other similar products and I would think that durability would definitely be an issue. The material is thin and I wouldn't want to go through brambles in it. I think that it would very easily be snagged by thorns although would presumably be easily repairable with duct tape. I wouldn't want to rely on it on a multi day hike but for day use on clear trails it is ideal. It packs down small and weighs very little. I liked it.

Backpackers Dorset weekend

My first outing of 2013. I was keen to get out and finally get rid of the 'flu that had been plaguing me since just after Christmas. There were six of us by Friday evening on the site at Sixpenny Handley, south of Salisbury. The weather forecast wasn't that good. I took my tent, the Laser Competition, rather than a tarp, for that little extra bit of warmth. It rained over Friday night and Saturday morning was cold and wet. Starting with a short road walk, we went on to a track in Chase Wood and from there headed west over a golf course to Rushmore Park. It was wet and muddy in places but this was to be expected and the rain continued on and off. By Sandroyd School, we took a muddy track up Malacombe Bottom and then, after a while emerged on a lane leading to Higher Bridmore Farm. Passing this by, we shortly entered a track leading back into Chase Wood, eventually returning to our camp mid afternoon. A feature of much of the day was encounters with locals out shooting game. Eleven miles walked.

Sunday morning was cold but dry. Parking cars in the Martin Down Nature Reserve car park, we headed south east on one of the many tracks crossing the reserve. We went by the start of the Jubilee Trail at Bokerley Dyke, an 88 mile trail ending at Forde Abbey in Dorset - one to be done another time. Then up and into woodland at Blagdon Hill, there was an elevated walk with good views before descending on a muddy track into the village of Martin. The, leaving the village along a flodded lane, we entered the reserve again and returned to the car park, a distance of around five miles.

No photos as the camera batteries were flat.

Scotland End to End

A minor bout of 'flu between Christmas and New Year was an opportunity to slump in front of the TV and watch the two part BBC Scotland Adventure Show featuring Cameron McNeish covering the newly opened Goretex Scottish National Trail. The Trail has as its starting point the Border Hotel at Kirk Yetholm (being the start or end of the Pennine Way) and follows a meandering route north to Edinburgh, west to Falkirk and then generally northwards to Cape Wrath, a total distance of 470 miles. Along the way, Cameron meets various people who have something relevant to say about the landscape or a feature of it which adds to the interest. Needless, to say, the photography is stunning and really does justice to this amazing part of the world. The second part of the programme showed Scotland at its remote and wildest best. There was a brief switch at the end to the opening ceremony at the end of October 2012 when the Trail was officially opened by Scotland's First Minister, Alex Salmond. It is clearly hoped that the Trail will equal the West Highland Way in attracting visitors and their spending power to this part of Scotland. It will be interesting to see to what extent Mr Salmond and others in high places oppose the current plans for the Ministry of Defence to close off Cape Wrath (most of which it already owns). This will presumably have the effect of cutting off the final section of the Trail and force out of business the Ozone Cafe. There is a possibility of a community buy out and it is to be hoped that this is successful, otherwise this beautiful corner of Scotland will be closed to public access.